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Base is fibro

Still need to fine tune switched thermocouple’s, have a 3600kw heat for boil (own circuit) and 2400kw for HLT.

Heat sinks check

Wanted something that was a little different. Went for the very rustic look

Just giving drsmurto a plug, bought some Vic a few weeks ago from. Outstanding quality and packaging. You would be very unlucky to suffer damage to rhizomes via post as a result of the packaging efforts.

I don't yet, but have been contemplating making my own o2 with hydrogen peroxide n yeast, filling a balloon then into wort. Thinking will be cheaper and relatively easy. Only early stages of research but the basic chemistry is safe lol

Not tried it yet, but will look now. is it slightly dryer than your typical IPA, if so maybe they used some Gladfields supanova, just a thought

I've got a couple of POR that are budding but no more in Brisbane

For mine whether needed or not, used an aluminium box to house in so when screwed in to seal element etc. had direct contact to kettle and attached earth to Ali box.

From my limited experience it Sounds like a fusal alcohol issue, often associated with higher ferm temps(which I know Saison's work off) so might have under pitched and yeast spent itself before it could clean them up. Not sure if there is a fix for this, or if it even helps. Is not norm for...

Great job Jason thanks heaps. Would love to have hung around

On phone but put me down for one. Cheers Simon

Thanks for speedy reply was just about to scratch/answer my own question after further researching my ponderings

Interesting reading, in a much simplified circuit not being 100% familiar with the inkbird but in relation to the mentioned contactor. Other than the initial on/start up switch could you use the pid as the switch through a contactor to the element instead of the SSR.

I use both makes no noticeable difference. And that's going from one to the other for secondary (which I have stopped doing as well with no noticeable difference yet)

Realise this is a bit past dates but why not heat HLT to initial temp say 65 ready to go. Bring mash water up to temp in Boil tank, pump into mash tun from it, let rest, swap hoses as rests then start your cycle. That's what I'm doing and works fine, or have I missed something.

Running a 2400 and 2x keg king mkII pumps on a 10amp in hlt together with no probs and a 3600 on 15amp in boil. No pids but all works okay.

Crikey didn't realise it was such a big thing, heard about the process just recently but didn't know what it was called to get info on, so a big thanks to all for their input. Cheers

Excellent thanks heaps, will give underletting a go, am running a herms, I have been filling pre heated MT(cooler) from boil kettle when at temp with herms/hlt ready to start at mash temp once mixed So underletting should work well for me.

When mashing in, does it matter which goes in first if your pumping water in from bottom of tun? Is one better than the other?