Search results

Can i grab the chinook . Have pm'd

Also jump on "perth home brew share " on facebook for more local brewers mate

How much head is there is the real question.alot ,a little or just right?if it is normal amount of head then yeah undecarbed if it is half a glass of jead and the beer below is flat then overcarbed

Sounds overcarbed. Disconnect from the gas bleed the excess out of the prv (pressue relief valve valve) a few times over .5-1 hr period ,hook back up 70-80kpa and see how it pours .may need a few goes to get rid of all the excess gas.if u need a beer right now tho,remive the gas bleed right of...

I have no problem recirc i do a .9mm crush as it is.i may give that a try even a thicker masher as i thought less initial water may may allow me to sorge more

I would have to reread my book but how does the thin mash effect anything? Cheers for your help

I used to batch sparge with my old setup and have wondered about channeling with my keg mash tun/ with 10-12" false bottom but i am just getting stuck ob the fact my gravity is so high.i know the volume is low and all balances out when i add the straight water to the kettle

The runnings coming out of the mash tun had dropped to a gravity of 1010 so i stopped sparging amd taking wort from the tun to avoid tannin extraction

I didnt use all the water from the mash tun it was still full cause of the gravity of the runnings .i have sight glasses which i have set up by weighing water and marking lines on the glasses

I use beersmith and have set up my profile. 6l boil off an hour usually ,2l to trub ,1l to shrinkage etc. I have done many brews so have a fair idea of ny setup just cant work this issue out

Sorry forgot that.fly sparge took about 45 minutes to get the 22l I do 3l per kg of grain 15l in the mash and was supposed to be 24l fly sparge *spelling

Hello So my issue since i built my 4v herms has been i never can reach my pre boil volume by a long shot but my gravity is way over what i want also.it seem like my mash is super efficient and doesnt really need rinsing so i end up having to dilute my pre boil wort with water to correct my...

I believe 8gms /l is for bottling unless it specifically said kegging. Just used my beersmith app it said 68.5gms @ 18.c for 23litres thats if your kwg can even hold 23l im guessing its a 19l corny

170gms of dex in the keg?i think you may be deagssing rhis one for a while .i used 50gns as a general rule if thumb and still end up degassing sometimes. (ales tho) What made you use that much dex,did u use a calculator to work out how much to add?

Never the neutral alone of course but I dont see an issue in a douple pole isolation of the elements or the control panel supply

Would you need 2 dpdt for the feeds,1 for each? or instead of isolating the neutral aswell are you just going to use 1 leg for each active supply?

Just put a switch inline with the ssr trigger

Why do you need mechanical ones? I use solid state relays as do many people.such as this and it is controlled by my pid http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/231296063774?nav=SEARCH

Thats how I use my cfc also but I dont add the whirlpool hops until I hit 60.c for less chance of boiling the hop oils away I dont have a pre chiller yet but I struggle to get below 32-34.c Into the fermentor unless I take an hour to transfer so a pre chiller should sort that out :)

What sort of cooling do you have in between the chest freezer and the taps? Insulated lines? Some sort of chilling?