Search results

Yeah, nah that's not right Water pipe should be bonded to the earth stake/main earth, if it's not you need to get that looked at.

50 Meg Ohms is pretty high, insulation resistance of 1 Meg is the minimum for an installed electrical circuit. It will probably get higher when they heat up and dry out a bit more

Taste the first beer when bottling, if it tastes good, no hint of an off flavour it's all good. Have a look at your fermentor as well, if it's mouldy etc. it's obviously bad and should be cleaned. I suggest trying it out and seeing how it works for you

The US also have 220 volt they use on bigger appliances, e.g stoves. They run on 60Hz though.

If it stayed hot and started fermenting there may be some off flavours. It's probably a good idea to get some more yeast in there ASAP.

I'm in

Well done ESB, I'm looking forward to sampling some of those champion beers at Fridays meeting :cheers:

Try starting your ferment at 18 then after a week raise the temp up slowly to 22 to help it finish off. The lower start temp should help reduce off flavours. Last time I fermented out of a fridge I put a heat belt on with a blanket over the whole fermentor then stuck a temperature controller on...

If it was bubbling again after the cold patch then the yeast was probably still alive. It might be worth giving it an extra day or 2 to help finish it off.

It's not recommended to reuse the yeast from sour beers, apparently the low ph leaves you with unhealthy yeast. I'd start with a mild or porter with a low gravity.

Congrats Brett, Barry and ESB Thanks for all the effort Stu, Barls, Col, all the judges and stewards. Hoping to have a consistent beer to send to nationals this year

Was in Bunnings today. They had heaps of hot chillies, lots of habanero, and another 2 or 3 varieties, some that claimed to be the hottest in the world. I'm not willing to eat any of them so didn't purchase. That was at the kingsgrove store in Sydney

I'd like some temp control

Try a 90 minute mash

Has adjustable tension so may be ok

I puts my hops in a hop sock in the cube then pour through a sieve. It manages to catch the hop sock and bigger lumps

Doubtful since the thread on the cam lock is likely to be tapered and the other thread would be straight. You should be able to get a camlock with the required thread or a threaded adapter to suit.

You're combining different issues. Current carrying capacity is based on thermal limits of the cable, there are specified limits on voltage drop that also need to be met, 5% voltage drop I think from point of supply to end of the circuit.

The temperature that will start to damage your cables will depend on what they are insulated with. Personally if they are warm I would use bigger cable. If you're looking at putting in RCDs at the board get the breakers changed as well, new breakers are better than old ones and significantly...

Apart from not being a legal way to isolate the element you'll always have voltage on the element if you use the SSR to isolate. Put a contactor or switch on the power, job done