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Yep, assuming there aren't any leaks in your keg, its a closed system, you shouldn't lose any CO2. Would be worth maybe giving the keg a squirt of CO2 just to make sure there's pressure to keep the lid sealed.

What yeast strain are you using? Do you have a way of controlling the temperature? - 24° is pretty warm for a lot of strains. You shouldn't be at risk of infection from your airlock issue, there's not much chance of contaminants 'flying' back through an airlock with the current activity. If...

As above Or alternatively, wait till the wort has dropped below about 80° before adding hops, then you can pretty much assume zero-ish IBU. Whatever you choose to do going forward, I'd aim to be consistent in your approach and evaluate the results so you can tweak things and be able to better...

Yeah, ok. I suspect your problem is yeast selection. If you just picked a true German hefeweizen strain, (say Wyeast 3068) you'd have all the banana you could wish for. Currently you're trying to coax banana esters out of a yeast that doesn't really want to do that. From the white labs site...

So, specifically which strain are you using - wyeast 1010?

Heres a link to a write up of a split batch comparison I did a few months ago. LalBrew[emoji2400] Köln Kölsch Style Ale Yeast I also used it to brew a NEIPA - came out really good

If you boiled the cockroach then I think you can safely disregard its contributions. I'd be rechecking the FG reading with a hydrometer, I suspect your tilt is misleading you.

just to be clear, even with an ATC pH meter, you still need to measure at room temperature. There’s two things going on. The probe itself behaves differently at different temperatures. This is what the ATC compensates for. But the actual pH value also changes, as temp goes up, pH drops. The ATC...

Perfect! If you want some simple tweaks from here until you get up and running: For hoppy beers or pilsner type beers, wherever you want a drier, crisper finish, sub some extra gypsum in to push up the sulphate - so maybe 6g gypsum, 2g calcium chloride For maltier styles where you want to...

OK, I just whipped up a rough profile for you. Assuming a total water volume of 40L (25L strike and 15L sparge) Assuming your water is close enough to RO Assuming around 5kg base malts and 400g medium crystal malt In that case, if I were you, I'd add 4g gypsum and 4g Calcium chloride to your...

If you're going with co-pitching both yeasts, I'd probably just rehydrate the 05, and depending on the freshness, make a starter for the 029. However, do you have any option to do a split batch side by side fermentation experiment? You might gain some useful information (or at least have a bit...

I've brewed two clones of warhog, with decent success when compared side by side with the original. This version got me close enough that I don't feel the need to tweak it any further. Recipe Specifications -------------------------- Batch Size (fermenter): 50.0 L Estimated OG: 1.062 SG...

If you are going to the trouble of doing essentially a full CO2 purge by pushing out the sanitiser with CO2, have you considered closed transfers to the keg? You could fill the keg via the 'beer out' post with the lid still on and have a line from the 'gas in' post either to a container of water...

When you say 'Victoria', do you mean Vic Secret? If so, Vic Secret is fairly close to galaxy. Perhaps a bit more subtle, so you might consider using a bit more.

Thanks Inky dudes!

I'm pretty sure that the metabisulphite dose used to remove chloramine/chlorine (1/4 tab per 20L) is way less than the dose used to halt yeast activity. Not to mention that most of the metabisulphite you added will actually already have reacted with chlorines and become harmless. Bottom line -...

I like the look of your recipe. I have a MO/Mosaic SMaSH which I basically have to brew regularly to keep up with 'customer' demand. I use an OG 1.048, 34 IBU, 2g/L whirlpool, 2g/L DH. Its just so easy to smash (pun intended) down multiple pints, it borders on ridiculous.

Not a SMaSH, but I have just cold crashed an all vienna pale ale with cascade and galaxy. The samples I took for FG reading tasted REALLY good. And a really appealing colour. SMaTH sounds ok I guess

I still think you're way short on hops, especially your dry hop. You currently have less than 2g/L in the dry hop. FWIW my IPA's start at about 6g/L. IPA's are (relatively) expensive if you want them to taste awesome.

I'm not sure 100g is gonna be enough to make 25L of decent IPA. But if thats all you have, I'd focus on dry hopping - move the 15 and 5 min additions to the dry hop. Also even though you want to focus only on one hop, move the FWH to the whirlpool and use something else as your bittering...