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I already have 90 mins down for the boil. I picked 67 for my mash temp because if I miss it by a degree or 2 I won't be too low. I do BIAB so I don't mash out, I just pull the bag after the hour of infusion. Why is mash out at 75 so important?

You could call it an extra hoppy pilsner but as I said I'm not too concerned with fitting a particular style. My objective is to do a lager that will appeal to a hoppy ale lover.

As I said I'm aiming for a hoppy lager and not too concerned with fitting into some style box. I'm aware hopping rate is much higher than a typical lager/pilsner but what I'm wondering is if such late hopping with hallertau and pacifica would be good or bad?

Looking for feedback on this recipe that I've put together with ingredients that I have on hand. I haven't brewed many lagers and I'm not so familiar with the various lager styles, I'm more into hoppy ales. My goal is to do a lager with a bit more hop flavour than typical lagers, I'm not so...

My thinking on the crystal was that a bit of speciality grain would help with malt character in a low gravity beer and that a small amount of light crystal wouldnt darken it much. How about TF Caramalt instead of the Bairds Pale Crystal, would that be lighter? I'm doing stovetop partial mash...

1) Pot size - I'm limited to partial mash and 2) I have LME that I need to use up

I've already got a good pipeline of pale ales, IPAs, stouts etc. so for my next brew I want to do an easy drinking, low alcohol, session beer. I also want to use only the ingredients that I have on hand which are Hops: Motueka, Nelson Sauvin and Simcoe, Yeasts: US04, S04, Grains: TF Chocolate...

Motuaka has a nice distinctive flavour, I've used it in a Macs Sassy Red clone, turned out great.

While that recipe will probably make a fine beer it probably won't have much similarity with the LC Bright Ale that you are trying to clone. I see from the recipe on this site LCBA features Sazz B hops, which is another name for Motueaka hops (a very nice and unique NZ hops derived from crossing...

Hops will settle out so no prob. You can even just throw them in straight without making a 'tea' - it's standard dry hopping proceedure.

Just a follow up now that I've brewed and bottled this one: The number of IBUs are completely irrelevent, I drank this as I bottled it and it was not overly bitter in the slightest. In fact I don't even believe that it could be a high IBU beer, it was smooth and easy drinking. One of the best...

Good to know. When I read this thread first it had me wondering should I dump my 3 jars of harvested yeast/trub but sounds like it's no worries. What about washing? How important is that. I never get the liquid on top to be clear, I just exchange the beery liquid with boiled cooled water about 3...

Thanks for the reassurance. So why do people go to the trouble of trying to seperate it (assuming it's not coming from a dark beer)? Does it make a difference for long term storage? My logic tells me that the extra trub will just settle out in the new brew anyway and have no impact.

Just reading this thread and the Wolfy thread and I see that I'm doing yeast harvesting all wrong. I also put my containers of slurry straight in the fridge to settle out. I'm able to decant off the beery liquid from top but not get much separation between trub and yeast so I'm just keeping the...

Another +1 on Fermentis SafeAle US-05. US-05 is a neutral yeast and it's widely available so it's a good choice, it's what I mostly use. I've read the Nottingham is also fairly neutral but haven't used it myself yet.

Now's the time to do it as it's just been a day or 2 and you'll not have any significant carbonation developed in the bottles yet, so you won't loose any carbonation by opening them. It's actually rare for me to complete a batch without some little mistake or other (have a look in my blog and...

Just an update on this - I brewed it on Saturday night and made it up to 18L. The fermentation was very vigirous. I got some foam in the airlock but none came out, so looks like 18L is just about the right volume to start with. Today, day 3, krausen has dropped and airlock activity slowed so I...

I would expect that if you add the water early enough oxidation would actually be a good thing rather than a problem since the yeast are still busy fermenting and would benefit from the oxygen - but that's just a guess and I could be wrong. I think my main concern is stressing the yeast with a...

My fermenter is already a 30L one. This is what happened with a single can of Coopers Stout, made up to 23L with 1kg DME and fermented at 20C: So I'm expecting even more krausen with this toucan. Also this fermenter has one of those plastic airlocks stuck into a small black grommet so not sure...

I'm doing a toucan Coopers Stout & Dark Ale and I know this will blow over big time because I've done the stout on it's own and had it blow out through the airlock resulting in a bit of a mess (and some lost beer). I read a tip on the Coopers website forum - make it up to 15L instead of the...