Search results

I just heard Marshall on the Brülosophy podcast talk about putting a gas post on the lid of a Brewtech Brew Bucket to transfer. The hole in the lid is the right size. I haven't tried it though.

They have had to temporarily turn off the online shop and therefore the sale. Their inventory system broke with the number of orders. Fingers crossed that people that ordered yesterday can get their orders fulfilled.

The yeast will clean up the diacetyl, just keep it on the yeast cake for a bit longer.

Thanks Terminal. It's been a while since I've used the "brew enhancers".

Yes, generally speaking the higher percentage of malt you use the better the head retention will be. The more sugar you have in your brew, the less residual protein, and the head won't last as long. From memory, BE2 is 50% malt, 25% matodextrin and 25% dextrose. I'm sure someone can correct me...

I did a little bit of digging around myself and looked at various characteristics but I did base some of it on (Mangrove Jacks Craft Series Yeasts Substitution Chart)

W-68 is meant to be very similar to Lalbrew Munich Classic, Wyeast 3068 or White Labs 380. BW-20 is similar to Wyeast 3942 or White Labs 410. It's also (v. probably) sold by Mangrove Jack's as M21. SafLager E-30 was only announced two weeks ago...

That's weird - you did everything to avoid acetaldehyde. It usually occurs when there has been oxygen introduced after fermentation or the beer has been pulled off the yeast too soon, and neither is the problem in your case. The only thing I can think of is that you got a dud packet that had...

Yeast hydration was fine. You're right, maltodextrin doesn't ferment well (hardly at all). I'm no expert with kveik yeast but with 65% attenuation where there is maltodextrine and malt extract, I would say your kit is finished. Bottle it when you're ready.

Correct, see post #7340 in this thread.

Toucan brews are just using two cans of hopped extract instead of one can and sugar or booster/beer enhancer. It's a convenient way to get a stronger, more bitter beer which is why stout drinkers often do it but you can make IPAs or English Strong/Old beers this way as well. The disadvantage is...

A message went up on the board at New Years that the moderators were closing it on Jan 3 and to save any info/threads before then. I think it was just the cost of running a board plus effort vs reward.

You can also use the Grainfather website and/or phone app. It's free, just register. You don't need to own Grainfather equipment, in fact it has the settings for the Gen 4 Brewzilla in it's database.

Sounds like you should give the pre-hopped kits a miss. I would do full extract beers and then you can control the bitterness level. From your previous post you probably would like beers in the 10-15 IBU mark.

Then it had finished. I'm not sure why you are tasting sugar, 1.010 is not sweet. Try again in a few weeks and possibly take a bottle in to your homebrew shop and get their opinion.

I wouldn't chance a yeast cake that's been sitting in a fermenter for 24 hours with no beer on top. If the fermenter has been closed you might be lucky, it's up to you if you want to chance it. Straight after bottling you could have poured some slurry into a sterilised jar and stored it in the...

Well, it had _stopped_ fermentation, not necessarily _finished_ fermentation. The final gravity should be somewhere around one quarter of the original gravity.

The bitterness will mellow with time, give it four to six weeks to condition. The Coopers Draught kits aren't that bitter, hopefully you will be pleasantly surprised by the end of the month.

Do you use extract kits or do you get unhopped dry or liquid malt and boil that with hops? Pale lagers are some of the more difficult beers to do with extract but it can be done and it can be done very well. European lagers, especially good German and Czech lagers are more difficult due to the...

https://www.brewersfriend.com/homebrew/recipe/calculator