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It always gets a good workout during the warmer months here. Altbier is something I've never tried Notto with Batz. I'll definitely give it a go. Cheers for the tip.

I've used Nottingham Ale yeast @ 13 c with no problems. Makes a clean Lager-like beer and ferments out in around 5 days at that temp. In fact, if I'm using a big yeast slurry, I have to keep it below 15c or it escapes the fermentor every time.

Odd how we perceive flavours so differently. For me, the only hop I've used with a strong grapefruit aspect is Cascade. Ella is spicy and floral with mild, nondescript fruitiness. Amarillo is over ripe oranges and Topaz is strong peach/apricot.

You're going to make an enjoyable beer anyway and if you feel you need more hoppy goodness for the next one, you can go from there. Really depends on personal taste.

The late hops will often shine through when the yeast drops out and the beer has conditioned. If you want to, you can just throw your dry hop in to swim free if you have the ability to cold crash. If not, use a hop sock or similar to contain them .

You can do it that way or use a large pot/esky ect, and pour your sparge water over your grain and let it sit for a couple of minutes before hanging or sitting in/on a strainer or oven rack or similar to drain.

Looks okay to me. You realize your mistakes and will have learned from them. One thing though....if you don't have the capacity to do full volume BIAB , why not use the 6 litres ( should be 8-9 by the looks of your final volume) to sparge. Basically any container of decent size that can handle...

Give it a chance. The stuff on the bottom is probably break material.

And probably double that again initially, until the bag drains. Unless you can get over the top of your grain bag using a step ladder or something, most people would find it impossible to lift that weight when it's at close to a 90 degree angle in relation to their body. Edit- Using 2 bags to...

I can't say I know much about where the term "pot" comes from, but I do know the different beer glass terminology in QLD v NSW can be potentially dangerous. 25 odd years ago I walked into the Halekulani Bowls Club and asked how much it was for a pot. The young "man mountain" behind the bar...

I am attention Inkbird.

I do similar with my AG brews. Just let the chilled wort pour from the boiler tap into the FV, but for optimal results oxygenation would still be the go, whether it be kit, extract or AG.

Extract brew you dont need oxygenation as you would with allgrain. ? I've heard arguments for and against oxygenation when using dry yeast, but what difference do you think it makes if you make your own wort, as opposed to someone else making it and concentrating it more?

2nd 2 - If the correct amount of (ale) yeast is pitched then the beer should generally have finished fermenting in 5 days or less so 2 weeks should be plenty. Although you should still taste it to see if diacetyl is present. If so leave it for longer. 3 - 3 days, a week , wont make much...

The average IQ is always 100 warra.

FWH= First Wort Hop. 1st hop addition is used immediately after grain is removed and the wort is ramping up to boil.

To me Red X comes across with a health dose of dark roasted malts and is slightly acrid. I'd go with a kg of Red X , the wheat and the rest MO. Bitter to 25 ibu, with half coming from cascade at 5 min or less. Dry hop with 40g of Falconers Flight. Tettnang and Waimia are probably a bit mild...

44% pale 44% vienna 8% wheat 4% toffee 5% abv Waimea @ 60 minutes to 12 ibu Citra and cascade @ 5 minutes to 12 ibu. Dry hop 20g citra, 20g cascade. Edit- MJ-42 yeast or Nottingham for something a bit cleaner .

Number 5 sounds good.