One heat source is fine.
I use a 30watt reptile heating lamp in the bottom of the fridge. I know others that have a heat mat in the bottom or a belt along the side like you suggest.
Temp probe on one fv should also be fine. I place the probe between the two fv pushed close together.
A change to brewing technique is like a change of equipment, it takes a brew or 2 to dial it in.
If chilling gives you the *****, stick to no chill. Use the no chill option on your brewing software and after a few brews you'll have it dialled in.
On the odd occasion Ive no chilled, Ive...
Mash Tun = 19l big w pot. false bottom, ball valve and kmart yoga mat for insulation
HLT = 19l big w pot and element controlled by STC100
Used Keggle and burner.
I think you could pull that off for under $200
There's a 3v system that will do a full size batch of higher gravity beers. You can...
Put in a pot of warm/hot water to loosen it up. Get a wooden spoon or similar with a blunt end. Bang it on the ground or hard bench while holding the outer part and it should pop right out.
Clean it. then put back into the warm/hot water and bang it back in.
I got infections from the taps from not pulling apart and cleaning thoroughly. I then moved to a siphon in preference to the taps to avoid the risk of infection. Then moved back to taps as I found I was experiencing the effects of oxygenation from the siphon.
Make sure you pull the taps apart...
Same
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Works
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Piggy backing on the cake wont be an issue with or without nutrient.
My success with ciders has always been the third pitching onto the cake (but never ec1118.) ie first batch nice, second batch nicer, third batch winner...
Im assuming you will be using an STC-100 or equiv to control the herms or RIMS. Why wouldnt you use the same to control the HLT and have better control for strike water and sparge water temp?