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I pitched my 1l starter into a 1.050 Tooth's White Horse Ale last Sunday and like Bribie said, this one's a slow plodder. It hadn't even dropped 20 points after 3 days so I bumped the temp from 18 to 20°C. At day 6 it's down to just under 1.020. Too early to get a feel for how it tastes, hydro...

Sounds like a complete pain in the arse Adr_0, it irks me to say but I reckon a control valve with a 4-20mA positioner on the discharge would be the simplest method to control flow with a unit of this scale. I haven't dealt with them in the food industry but in mining and paper they haven't...

Single phase VSDs can be had fairly cheaply and are also a viable alternative to a motor starter. My experience with them is limited but controlling speed remotely shouldn't be hard if you've got a graphical PLC frontend. In fact if you have the right control program you could even control it...

Can't find exactly on the forum in work time but enough searching mentions Jamil's Yeast book saying 60-90 secs at 1 litre/min is adequate for most brews. I go 60 secs for lagers where I only keg (thus 19l), up to 2 mins for strong beers. I mention 0.8 l/min because beyond that I get bubbling...

I don't see that there should be too much dicking around if you have water coming out of your tap that is going to be at a constant temp. I've beaten around this bush before but when it comes to heat exchangers, more flow = better transfer. If you're not concerned with the water usage, here is...

Considering I don't have a DO meter I go largely by feel as you suggest, and I reckon the logic is sound. I still go 0.8l/min but only for about 15 seconds. My logic is amount of O2 required is proportional to the volume and OG. 0.8 l/sec for 60 secs = 0.8l for 23l of 1.050 wort (general...

I went 2.5l, single step with yeast nutrient and O2 on a stir plate. Took about 4 days to ferment out.

Had a Dortmunder Export that was of comp quality in the keg, and have let it last a few months with the intent to bottle some for NSW (and further should I be so lucky). After a hard day of soprt and bricklaying, I decided to treat myself to a schooner and finally prepped the bottling gear to...

They're both very different strains, one Belgian and the other English. I used the WLP085 and considering there is SFA info about it on the forum or in general I'm guessing you grabbed it from Martin. Mine only got down to 1.024 so I'd be curious to see how you go with it. The Belgian Strong...

Abbotsford Stout $4.50 at the RSL, yes thanks

6. Midnight Brew, IPA An IPA, approaching mid-August, why am I the first to try this? And with that in mind after a day of yard work it would surely be the perfect companion. It poured into the glass well and had a copper colour foremost with very good clarity. Appropriate carbonation, moderate...

Thanks for the kinds words. I'm not a wheat beer fan myself either but this one is tailored to my tastes. It would have had more banana to it but it's a volatile ester - the longer in the bottle the more subdued it becomes. Regarding carbonation, wheat has no impact on it. It's all about the...

On the boring home scale I clean a line every time I clean a keg. Typical sequence will be - Rinse keg thoroughly Boil a jug of water Add cap full of sodium percarbonate and freshly boiled water to keg, shake to buggery Run at least 200ml though beer line to clean keg dip tube and beer line...

We can all take photos of anything these days but occasionally a pic 'says' something. I can feel myself sitting on a stool in that pic - sun setting, some birds doing their final calls in the background, silence about the house with nothing a matter in the world but yourself and a cold...

Speaking of swaps does anyone have beer #1 from idzy? I didn't get one.

I've brewed a number of Aussie lagers with ~30% dextrose by extract (about 650g in a 19l 5% brew) and to be honest wouldn't have it any other way. I started at the lower end, at around the 10% mark like you're suggesting shacked, and found it to be in no man's land with a little too much malt...

I don't agree hirschb. For rapid souring (do a web search or check this excellent post here) you want to boil, 'rapid sour' at ~45°C, then do a final boil to kill off the bugs/stop souring. There are still plenty of sugars left in the wort to finish the brew with yeast and turn it into a beer.

Not an issue, every kit brewer does it with the can and sugar and they largely manage to knock out infection-free beer.

Probably the same as you, it's a 2A job from eBay. See this post. That's a fair point though, it could be a power supply issue. I've measured the output voltage and have wound it from 9V - 12V which it seems to put out stably on my multimeter at least.

Many thanks to Hoppy Days for supplying this yeast, I got myself two vials. I brewed up the online recipe for Tooth's White Horse Ale and got these yeasts yesterday and am getting a bit excited, especially considering there is very little known about the yeast and the blurb only says '74 - 78...