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Was chatting to our friendly local brewer last week and he was telling us about a Vermont IPA he had brewed recently. Apparently the style involves dry hopping twice, once during active fermentation and once after it has finished. I'm no scientist it apparently there is an interaction...

Hey Beil, not having a go but measurement errors are common and easy to make and generally when something doesn't seem right it is the simplest possibility rather than the most complex. The difference between measuring gravity before or after stirring wort could easily be 5 gravity points...

Sounds to me like there has been a measurement error at some point. Possibly the first gravity sample. Once sugars are in the wort they can't disappear. There's a simple calculation where you multiply the volume and gravity of the first sample and it will equate to the volume and gravity of...

I also try to use fresh liquid yeasts. I've used a few different ones but if you treat them right they will all produce good beer.

Normally I try to make enough of the same wort as the brew to use as starters and an extra 4-5 litres is enough. I also find keeping the starters at the same temperature I plan on fermenting at works well. So I fill a cube and 2 Erlenmeyer flasks, a small one with a litre and my 5 litre with...

There's no reason you can't make a good lager biab and no chill. It is much more about getting the fermentation right. The most basic lager would be 97% Pilsner 3% acidulated and any noble hop to 15-20IBU. For fermentation what I do is buy a good liquid yeast and make enough wort to put 1L...

Had a bit of a quiet day at work today so have managed to piece together all the bits that I think I will need to make it work so thanks for the tips and links, I will be sure to post some pics in a couple of months time when it has all turned up and I have pieced it all together. Not too bad...

Thanks mate, link works fine so might grab a couple of those and I can figure out the rest while I'm waiting for them to turn up. I have a BIAB setup that is fully operational but I am piecing together the bits for a 3V system, mainly for high gravity beers which are pretty fiddly. Also for...

Is the one in the picture a 2" ferrule and 1/2" thread? If so can you remember where you found it? Most of the cheap ones I've found with a 2" ferrule have a 1 1/2" thread.

That's the setup I had in mind although the I was thinking about having a length of pipe between the elbow and the ball valve so the ball valve was past the edge of the keg. Where abouts a did you get your parts from?

Thanks for that link, I had looked at still dragon without finding that specific thing, was probably looking in a different section as I am fairly baffled by the terminology.

I purchased sanke kegs for use as a HLT and mash tun and am looking at using triclover fittings to connect to the bottom of the keg. This sounds fairly simple, all you need is a 2" clamp and a compatible fitting with a 2" ferrule. The only problem is that it is difficult to find something that...

After thoroughly enjoying the Feast of Stevens over Christmas from HopDog I have decided to make an attempt at it myself. It really was one of the most remarkable beers I tried in 2016. So the challenge is to get roasty, toasty flavour and thick stout mouthfeel while keeping the colour pale...

I managed to find the old info about yeast and the advice was that it could absorb up to about 25% of flavour not the 30% I stated earlier in the thread. I would imagine most commercial breweries would yeast off before adding anything post ferment.

This is a truly remarkable beer! It's a white stout brewed with 3 different kinds of smoked malt and then coffee beans and cacao nibs added post fermentation. Has a smokey, roasty chocolately flavour that you might expect from a stout but in a pale beer. It is pretty rare that I am blown away...

I would think that if you had a tasteless IPA that you should be looking at your boil/whirlpool additions rather than dry hopping. Dry hopping should enhance this but it can't replace what should happen in the boil.

Is agree with barls here. The yeast will definitely absorb hop oils as well as other added flavours. We were having this discussion about oak in beer and the advice was that yeast will absorb up to 30% of the flavour compounds. Ideally you would probably finish fermentation, transfer to...

The irony is that they were trying to protect small breweries and pubs from the big breweries and their lagers. In reality they were trying to save the craft beer of the time. Unfortunately their definition is so narrow they have become a real ale cult rather than embracing the resurgence of...

This also looks like it was a full volume mash with no mash out or sparge which may be more likely to introduce tannins into the wort. The method used would be the least likely of all to extract tannins if my understanding that temp, time and pH are the biggest factors is correct. It would...

I still use the biabacus for recipe formulation although I must admit to often being lazy and using nothing when brewing standard recipes. I know what grain weights and volumes I need for my system and sometimes use Brewers friend to check hop additions and IBUs but sometimes not. Often the...