Search results

I think Cronk and Milford were good in offense and Napa and Papalii were solid, but the rest of the forwards were outmatched and after the first half nobody had anything in the tank for defence. Justin O'Neill was walked all over by Jarryd Hayne and was too busy looking at Fifita rather than...

Mate I'm very sorry to hear that - everything ok? Sounds pretty serious. You got it. :) I love my black pale ales, so I'm going to make an extra pale version of a black pale ale recipe that I like. It should be hazy too, but might be a touch high on the bitterness - or at least the IBU's -...

NSW played bloody well - congratulations on the team for finally focussing on the game rather than the inevitable choke.

How long does an auto tune take?

Yeah you're right GalBrew - back in Brisbane I have an 80L CCV as a mash tun with 3/4" plumbing, but only a 70L kettle. It's great actually but I'm sure it's limited in some way. The setup here was aimed at 20-25L batches and contained in a shelf unit on castors so I can move it around. The...

Assuming 42L hot preboil, try: 18L strike 2 x sparges of 13.5-14L (hot volume) which should get you up around the 85-90% mark. The catch is that you have quite a bit of preboil volume which you need to boil off, so consider this vs the single sparge. EDIT: and this is the thing... Time and...

This is the vehicle's top speed: It gives me another 8-9L of working volume on what I had, which is excellent. While 5.5kg was my practical limit I can now comfortably do 7.5kg or even up to 8kg at a squeeze - which I am absolutely stoked with.

It also depends where you've got room - if you can increase your preboil volume in the kettle and perhaps drain 60-70% of your HLT then refill, then you can open up more efficiency and use two sparges. But you'd need a heap more room in your kettle (45-50L) and also your mash tun, so I'd...

Yeah good question. The strict number of efficiency doesn't really matter, but if you're getting in the 50's or 60's mash efficiency (conversion efficiency x lauter efficiency) you can technically save a bit of $ and some space in your mash tun by using less grain. 65% brewhouse/70% mash? is...

I brew on a shelf frame, which is quite compact. I just can't fit anything bigger - and besides, we'll always have bottleneck somewhere, and we all have to recognise and appreciate that. If you have a big volume in your mash tun, you do realise that you can dilute your sparges and get the same...

My philosophy is to understand something fairly well, then step back taking away the key points - and it will be the same with this, but I needed to know how I should handle various grain sizes on my new setup and that needed some calculation. Believe it or not, I generally like to keep things...

I don't really plan to - this just tells me when two sparges are better than one and what I need to do with my volumes when I'm close to physical capacity in my mash tun. Hey buddy, don't try to make this about delicious delicious beer that you sit back and marvel at - those bizarre notions are...

Yeah there are a few things: - The reason you lose lautering efficiency as you go higher in grain weight is that more wort gets retained in the grain - Stiff mashes, considering the runoff volume is low in proportion to the retained wort volume in the grain, will get a much lower lautering...

Don't ask me!

Hi all, I'm sure you've seen Braukaiser and some of the great analysis and tools available on this site. My 25L mash tun has been too small for bigger batches (1070+) and I was looking at upgrading to a larger 33L esky, with less insulation as I no longer need it since going RIMS. I was...

Are you holding any up in the Grainfather before transfer? If you had, say: 13L in fermenter (1L remaining in Grainfather) But calibrated the mark to be 13L when it's actually 14L - or maybe 13.5, 14.5, 15... - then this would account for lower gravity. Are you holding any up in the GF...

that's awesome. yeast-induced convection for the win!

Do you know what sort of pump is being used on the mash?

By the way it looks like your alarm has a 2°C deadband, so needs to drop 2°C below the setpoint before it turns off.. Unless a button press will do it? The 0000 display seems to beaches if there's a wire disconnected.