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I would do that first but do it in the old gear not new, fermenter, keg etc first before replacing everything. If all good then look at chiller/cube and hoses used prior to fermenter. If it turns out bad then look at fermenter etc.

I was thinking 50L keg or possibly 20L depending on brew length. $10-$50 second hand.

Not sure I fully understand what you are after but it sounds to me like you need a fermenter that you can fill in place and clean in place so don’t need to move it around when full? If so the good news is you can do that with just about anything although pumps make it far easier. The other...

It made perfect sense to me. Hadn’t noticed the error in your post. Only see it now you have pointed it out. Hadn’t even had a drink when I replied.

That’s more or less how I clean real ale cubes with caustic or sodium percarbonate. With polypins I just part fill them and leave them overnight with a few litres of caustic as sod perc inflates them so the surface is not fully in contact.

You can’t no chill and ferment in a HDPE cube because they need to be filled completely for the no chill bit. With the bags you don’t need to completely fill them with wort so can leave a headspace for fermenting. I have pointed this out a few times to @KegLand-com-au now but they seem to be...

@KegLand-com-au Have you tried no chill and fermenting in these things? Say about 19-20L wort leave the bladder in the milk crate, add dry yeast and a blow off when it cools. Then siphon to a keg when finished. Even more environmentally friendly and timesaving if you don’t need to clean and...

So are any of you guys going to try no chill and fermenting in these things? Maybe 19-20L wort leave it in the milk crate, add dry yeast and a blow off when it cools. Then siphon to a keg when finished.

Are these bag in keg as in can be dispensed with compressed air?

If they are not too bitter and it’s just hop taste/aroma that will fade given time. It sounds like you have the opposite problem to most folk who have trouble getting enough hop flavour or it fading to early in their hop forward beers.

Yep BIAB has been around for as long as homebrewing. I’m led to believe that it wasn’t as common here in AU and virtually unheard of by most AHB members in the early days of the forum so when they figured it out they thought they had invented a whole new brewing method and coined the phrase BIAB.

Did you buy yours in Australia? I understood they were not available here. I used mine as a make shift shower for a while when living in a caravan and renovating a derelict farm. We set it up in an old stable with no roof and took showers with rain and snow coming down on us through the rafters.

Yep, didn’t they get that name after a bit of good old fashion AHB scaremongering? The element is exactly the same as those commonly used in plastic kitchen kettles but put one in a larger brewing kettle and you are somehow at risk of electrocution. :confused:

@MHB Are your 50’s books aimed at home brewers or commercial setups? Just a thought Mark but maybe the 1950’s books you have did not cover single vessel brewing as you needed a licence to brew at home back then and I would guess anyone with a licence would be looking to brew more than the 5-10...

Yes I was doing BIAB in the eighties and up to about 1994 when I left the UK. Actually I recall brewing all grain BIAB again around 2000-2001 when I returned but only a couple times as I wasn’t living near the LHBS in St Albans Hertfordshire that stocked grain and hops and where I had bought my...

That’s what I was thinking and why I asked if the wort was being re circulated through the grain bed to filter it out. I haven’t brewed BIAB since about 1994 and always re circulate these days.

Perhaps it is but he said “As it heats up I scoop off the brown sludge” which sounded a bit strange to me.

I’ve never had brown sludge hot break. At least not that I have ever noticed.

We had a pool in the UK. Pumped it up and left it outside all week for summer then packed it back in the shed the following week.

The no chill in a cube method actually simplifies your method. After the boil let it settle 15-30 minutes depending on the shape and volume of your kettle. Then transfer to a cube, seal it and let it cool at ambient over night or in a bath or pool if you want to cool it quicker. The wort will...