Search results

Nope, not high krausen but certainly actively fermenting. So are we saying dry hopping is ok during fermentation so long as it’s not high krausen?

What about cask or real ale where dry hops are often added to the cask when there is still active fermentation? Dry hopped cask is crystal clear.

Would a faulty sensor work for 11 seconds before showing error? I have had faulty sensors on oven thermometers and they don’t work at all and show error as soon as they are switched on. It is displaying ambient temp 20c correctly for 11 seconds before showing Err and the alarm sounding. If I...

Traditionally ale was mostly dry hopped in the cask at cellar temp. Hops in cask ale don’t usually cause problems with dispensing, blocked dip tubes and beer lines etc. These days with Keg ale dry hopping is more often done in the fermenter to avoid blockages. You could dry hop in the fermenter...

Just went to use my Inkbird temp controller (Inkbird ITC-310T-B) and its showing Err on the display when I turn it on. I’ve sent Inkbird a PM but need to use it today so does anyone know how or if these can be reset? When I switch it on everything looks fine on both the top PV display and...

20L will fit into a 35L urn, it’s the other way around that won’t work. 35L into a 20L urn gets a bit messy. :D If you have a heating and cooling temp control on your fridge you could borrow that to control the urn on brew days?

If I was starting out in all grain these days and wanted a BIAB or single vessel system I would probably go with an off the shelf system, Kegking and kegland both have very reasonably priced ones. If I was going to put together something simple I would go with electric rather than gas and base...

Bugger, didn’t realise the giveaway had ended. Thought I had a winning reply! :D

Because that’s how DIY wired temp controllers were often built and housed before Inkbird started supplying pre wired units at a very reasonable price. My old STC 1000 is housed in a plastic ice cream container.

Doesn’t even need to be a calibrated refractometer. Homebrew hydrometers often vary considerably in accuracy but we make do. So even if you pull a larger sample for the actual reading you would need to be sure your hydrometer is calibrated if you want to know the true FG.

Looks like it may belong to The Hills Cider Company if you picked it up from recyclers for $20 its most likely either still their property or they have sold it for scrap for some reason.

Darren, if you are waiting 6 weeks for the beer to mature with bottled co2 perhaps you should try priming and naturally conditioning your beer and only use your bottled gas to dispense it at low pressure?

Yes they should, at least any I have seen will. So unless you have connects with one way valves? What sort of pressure is in your FV? Probably not enough to carb your lager anytime soon though?

Your keg is most likely already at the same pressure as your FV. Was it a closed transfer to the Keg? If not and you are sure there is little or no pressure in the keg try connecting one fitting to the gas post on the FV but depress the pin on other gas fitting with a screwdriver, pencil or...

That’s the main advantage of a conical fermenter, you can remove the yeast so easily when fermentation is complete, no need to rack or leave the beer on the yeast cake. Best to get the beer off the yeast ASAP.

I have these Harry Mason Veribest and Sander brass taps. Over 100 years old and still work well with no issues. The trick is to drink out of a Pewter tankard with such a high lead content the taps are the least of your worries. ;)

What do you mean by “don't have the space at the moment to get the beer off the yeast” if you have a conical stainless fermenter why can’t you just drop the yeast out? That’s the whole point of a conical. What space do you need? Or do you mean you have no space to store the yeast after for re use?

Yes you can. The water doesn’t need to be oxygen free, I think Mark may be getting confused with adding water to beer rather than to wort you are about to ferment? Same as adding water to beer kits. If you have a chiller you could just boil up the liquor and chill it into the fermenter straight...

Just out of interest, how could the handles come off from normal use after only 10 brews? Or did you buy it second hand and only use it 10 times?

Trouble I have found when trying to use a tall narrow measuring cylinder is it can be hard to stop the hydrometer hitting and sticking to the side and giving a false reading. If you want to take small regular samples you could use a refractometer for FG and just allow for alcohol.