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LupuLN2 _Citra (50g) warra48 - 1 Judanero - 2

Love the process view sight glass! Schmick.

Just throw them in loose, they will drop out during the cold crash. The marble(s) in the hopsock trick will also work if you're set on a hopsock.

My brother did a SWPA clone k'n'k beer, 1 can Mangrove Jacks Blonde 500g Glucose 500g LDME 20g Galaxy @ 5 min 20g Galaxy dry hop day 4 of ferment 22L batch size. US-05 Ferment @ 18c. Tastes pretty close, been a while since I've had a SWPA but I'd say a clone is accurate. I can't taste any...

pH is useful for your mash and interesting during and after fermentation, not overly for your input water. Newcastle has good water for brewing, here's something I have saved for Cardiff, and have attached a water report from Hunter water

Cheers Barls

Silly question, the entry number on the bottles is the same as the entry form- how can you differentiate between two people that may have entered an IPA as their first entry (wouldn't that mean that two people would have entry number 1 followed by the category and style etc on their bottles?) I...

I'll be heading to watch it also, even if just for the novelty of it. 49-0 vs a guy with 0 professional fights, and now 8oz gloves.. I'm guessing the MMA record of McGregor must have made all the difference in the minds of the NSAC, well enough for them to grant the fight license anyway. On...

Mill the day before, if brewing on the weekend heat your water about ten degrees over mash in temp the night before (right before bed) and then insulate your pot (wrap in sleeping bag etc). Wake up EARLY and you should be fairly close to mash in temp, get all your hops, spare water etc ready...

No problems but will take planning. As previously mentioned you will struggle to get a saison and a lager in the same fridge, but ales in the 18-21c range, no probs. Use something like the San fran lager yeast (WL) as your house yeast and you could do lagers and ales in the same fridge (starting...

You're not wrong! The taps alone would be worth it, solid, solid taps.

Personal preference of course, grain bill looks good, I'd mash lower, say 62-64c to 'dry' it out a bit, or at 66c and add a kilo of glucose on day three or so of ferment. I'd also lower the bittering to ~ 35 ibu (I'm a fan of super alpha for clean bittering) and go bigger on the late hops. I...

Yeah that sounds fair, I insulate the robo with some aero-cell (I think that's what it's called) but have the Tamworth winter to contend with so YMMV. I got mine at a decent price (2nd hand, gen 1) and use a pump to recirc, no complaints with it at all. I also almost exclusively FWH these days...

If I no chill, it is usually heat strike water at 1630, 70 min mash, 90 min boil, all done including cleanup by ~2100

Where are you located mate? I've thought about it a few times (buying a RO filter setup) but if I could snag RO water at a price like that I think it would at least initially make a lot of sense in trying out specific profiles for the 7 or 8 house beers I've pretty much settled on.

I'd ferment in it personally. Easy to clean and heat sanitise (fill with boiling water and perc). If it's like the 9L you probably wouldn't even need to shorten the dip tube, just crash chill and transfer via low CO2 pressure once the yeast has settled. You can also add a bit of tube to a gas...

Control box is now spoken for also.

No worries, edited original post to reflect inventory.

I have some surplus bits that were meant for projects but haven't had any traction so up for grabs: -1x 4 Tap flooded Andale fonts $150, -2 x Valterra pumps, $40 each -500mL Seperatory funnel $30 -SS Control box $50 -37L (I think) Cylinder Esky/mashtun/ portable keg insulator $70

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