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I only found out after a year of brewing that you could take apart and clean the morgan's fementer taps. Although the coopers ones are much easier to take apart and also the tap is nicer to use when sampling and bottling.

Yeah they are pretty solid. The scratches I noticed on my coopers one I think were from the previous owner. Got mine off gumtree for $10. Still hasn't caused an issue but was thinking of upgrading to a SS brewbucket or one of the KL/KK pressure fermenters, although no CO2 at the moment.

I use PBW with some hot water (just tap hot, and my tap water is not very hot, lucky to be 50c), or with water heated from my Brewzilla if I am cleaning that with PBW as well (usually around 50 or when I get sick of waiting for the solution to heat up) leave to soak for a while (halvies?) then...

Reviving this thread. Still selling hop rhizomes in Newcastle? After chinook but open to others

Bottle today. Went well. Tried to minimise any splashing but can still hear a bit when pushing the wand into the bottom of the bottle. Not really splashing but just noise when the beer rushes out of the end of the wand. Didn’t matter where I put it, sometimes was very minimal but varied...

Mate the list just keeps growing of beers I want to make! Hefe might have to be next

I don't really think I have an issue was just being over cautious about bottling this next brew I suppose. Good to hear you use the same wand and get great results. What sparked me thinking about this was my Pale ale which is now 3 weeks in bottle Tried it 2 weeks after bottling, it was no...

Fair enough. Would love to pressure ferment and keg but no cash for CO2 or another fermenter. Good to know my method is ok. Just gotta be careful with where the filler hits the bottom of the bottle I suppose. Really enjoying improving my process bit by bit. The missus asked if I was done...

Anyone have any good tips, methods or equipment for reducing oxidation from bottling process. I currently use the PET bottles and have been using the carb drops coz I had some left over still. I then squeeze the air our of the headspace and put in the fermenter fridge with the inkbird probe on...

CV Chill the bottle before you drink obviously though

You want to bottle condition/carbonate close to the same temp you fermented at. Depending on the style could be done in 2 weeks but as beergee says, I usually wait 2 weeks and them sample one each week until it is good. Will be a good learning experience too, you will see how your beer is...

Well done to all the winners and everyone who had a crack and entered. Unfortunately mine was not carbed up in time to enter but am excited for next time. Thanks all the volunteers and judges, love that there is a local comp like this

Awesome. Have been shown some articles on other forums also which are in line with this. No stress really because last brew I did the same and it tasted great with no off flavours but interesting to get other takes on it considering all the info out there which either agrees or conflicts with this.

Cheers mate. Nice to have validation of my method. I know I could probably pitch one pack but is on the higher OG side and gives me some insurance. I have been advised this elsewhere also which is why I pitch two in the first place.

Hey all, Happy Monday Wondering what your thoughts were on pitching yeast warm. Nothing crazy just 2 or 3 degrees higher than target ferm temp. I have read a lot of conflicting info. Some sources say you should pitch low and bring up to your target temp others say pitching a bit high is...

Reviving this old thread to say that my Pump inlet on my 35L unit is also close to the center of the unit. Seems like a design flaw to me as whirlpooling would put most of the gunk directly on top of the inlet and also the temp probe. I have seen pics on other units where it is off to the side...

I used whirlfloc in the kettle but have never used gelatin. Not sure how it would go or if it would take yeast out if you are bottling like me. Kegging maybe because you can force carb but I don’t have the Co2 set up yet.

I am doing my first cold crash next week so have had a look and asked a few different sources and they all pretty much say there will still be plenty of yeast in suspension, I only plan of crashing for a few days though. Not sure about 2 weeks.

So the main benefit of cold crashing it just for clarity right? For ales at least. I understand that Lagers need to.. lager but for an ale to only reason to crash is to drop everything out of suspension?

Pick me! Cheers