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A larger diameter roller is the best solution. But building a mill with such large rollers would weigh a lot and be very expensive. Large rollers would easily grip grain and push it through. they cant bounce back as the cavity is so large and grain on top several layers in between the rollers...

Atleast masters had better power equipment for gardening. They have honda mowers. Bunnings trimmers and mowers are cheap and nasty. But cheap and nasty is what sells.

Weighing out and milling can take for me 10 mins to 45 if I am doing something with 7 or so malts and a large batch. I keep 4 base malts, about dozen different spec malts. Dont underestimate the space and the ire they draw. But you can brew what and when you want if the opportunity arises...

I would use the extract if you wanted a fuller body and the dextrose for thinner. I would personally mash a little lower and use the ldme. The port barrel idea sounds fine. You will need to taste periodically to see how it is going. Your real problem imho is that you need more roasted grains...

The T58 is a belgian style yeast that would not suit a barley wine. The cerrals you mentioned could be added to the mash. Rye and rolled barley add great head retention. I cook first before i add inmalted cereals to my mash when I do it. For yeast I would just use S05. Remember this, just...

Rice is different to using simple sugars. Rice doesnt thin a beer out. It is low in flavour and will lighten the taste but not lower the body. When you mash it it takes on the fermentability same as the other grains. The enzymes dont distinguish between rice starch or barley. So if you wanted...

As Yob says Citra overdone is still good. Toss it and rebrew. If it doesnt happen again need not worry.

i used to hate milling on my mini. Constantly moving the grain around with left hand while right hand ran the drill. i opened the gap to 1.2mm and is working well. Another trick os to crush a kilo or so tediously then mix through the rest of the bill. Helpsvit pull it through.

Remove as much yeast as possible before packaging. Finings in fermenter after cold crash, let sit extra few days then transfer. Dry hopping is the fastest to fade.

I honestly think a kilo in 20l would be a good amount. Maybe more. I can give you some Mark if you like.

I used the Gladfield brown malt at 8% of the grain bill. Not harsh or roasty at all. Will go 15% next time. I used 3% melanoidin and it overpowers the brown malt it.

The most important book is something you cant buy. Its your brewers log book. Write down what worked, what didnt, how you would change a recipe for next time, which flavours and in what beer you liked, process changes and the impact on beer, yeasts and grains used. Age of hops, ferment temps...

Its cheap. But probably cant be used on the stove which is the purpose of them. U could boil in a pot cool and pour it in.

I get phenolics at 19c. I like it in a blonde ale.

Concealed elements overheat more easily and can fry themselves. People mod them to get a better boil but can mean the element can overheat as half is in contact with air under the unit where the terminals are. As the sugars settle on the urn concealed element it is sort of insulated and...

My suggestion would be to get an exposed element. Whichever brand.

I used this yeast at 19 degrees in 1070 wort. Belgian character. I like it. I made a starter. But i do for every yeast dry or wet.

I think everyones comments need to be taken on board in context of what brand of brown malt they are using. Simpsons runs at 500ebc while TF is much lower at 150ebc as is gladfield. So it really depends on the brand.

There is a can u brew it eposode on this beer from the brewing network. Their recipe and procedure and yeast is given if you want to clone it. Hour long podcast.

Sorry the first is what you want. Great piece of kit.