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Downsizing is a big one. When you just don't have the space and can't do it anymore.

It would be impossible to re-bottle wouldn't it? You just need to open the caps a touch and vent until it's okay. Can be dangerous. Gloves and eye protection.

Twang to me is from extract, poor yeast processes or infection. I have been a little more lax with temperature lately. The beer is still great.

If you have an ac unit they often have a dehumidify function. There is an anti mould pre paint product that is natural that I use. Citric acid based I think. This could be handy for you.

I made a great Weizenbock with M20. Nice amount of banana.

I've used red X and it seemed more like a base than a crystal malt. What's the percentage you are looking at and in what recipe?

This sort of makes me think back to when I had large trub losses when I was using BIAB. I switched 3v and the losses became minimal all else the same. The vorlauf step clarified the wort which is missing from BIAB. But with BIAB my preboil efficiency was higher as I was able to squeeze the...

I have used it and loved it. It wasn't a single hop add it had a little centennial in it. Would be perfect in the IPA family. Go heavy at the end of the boil then chill it.

Isn't it the dry hop that's causing problems? When you chill you can use hops late and then the chilling stops the utilisation. Dry hopping will add less fruity and resinous and adds more grassy and vegetal flavours. It's for this reason I only ever add hops late then chill. IPA all in the last...

The higher the gravity you are obtaining the lower your brew house efficiency will be. If you sparged extra, this would just serve to lower your SG, this requiring a longer boil. The brew house efficiency would be higher however. There is a trade off between grain and power usage. Id much...

I've yet to find a solution that works for me other than cold storage.

If you google hops and oxidation you will find your answers. Hoppy beers seem to oxidised more quickly. It's a problem that plagues all brewers and led to closed transfers and fermenting under pressure to try and eliminate oxygen. Other solutions include storing beer as cold as possible...

True true. I just don't want to have to serve 19 litres of Star San out so then I can get it filled with beer. (Purging) If it becomes reliably available I am going to get one to try.

Agreed. If i find the thread where they did the test I'll reference it here. Was done with a DO meter.

It's been tested and dissolve O2 was lower in the beer from the blichmann product than a closed transfer. It wasn't figured out if it was the yeast still in the beer, or if just flipping it once introduced less oxygen and that co2 was all that there was in the fermenter when this took place. I...

The Cornical from blichmann to me is the best solution. But it's expensive. I have been waiting for a similar product that's cheaper. None yet.

I know you are talking base malt, but biscuit malt adds nice flavours without altering the colour too much. The brands aren't all equal so you haver to check the EBC/lovibond.

I have bottle beer with this yeast before and the Krausen was still present. Id cold crashed to make it drop. When it warmed it reappeared. My hydrometer said it had finished fermenting.

Have been watching this. Good bbq tips. Although I think they favour the Coopers beer team for obvious sponsorship reasons.

I have thought about conducting the boil in a stainless conical fermenter with OTS elements to do this. Chill, dump trub, pitch yeast. Then dump yeast, pressurise, carb and serve. One vessel brewing. Only thinking stage. I have seen similar such as the williamswarn. But let's not go there.