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Check out this for a good use for them http://aussiehomebrewer.com/topic/76113-easy-water-filter/

I start about 25L, and hit 85% eff constantly. The crush and pH are keys.

Can you bypass the pid and plug the element directly into the power? It would show if it is a pid or element issue. If you do need more power, why not mount a second 2400w element.

One more controller, life would be good

At least the lawn is fertilised

I use Sod Perc and Starsan with a Sewerage Treatment Plant and never had a drama.

We sell them at work, never had one returned. But not sure if anyone has used them for the stepping profile.

I'd be checking if that grinding noise is just the internal pc fan, my one about the same age is making occasional fan noises.

I've never heard of a scotch being fermented on the grain, but I believe many bourbons are still made this way. With corn mashes up to 80% of the grain bill is made up of corn. By fermenting on the grain it allows the best utilization of the sugars, but also flavor from the corn. In most cases...

I disagree that 4800w is too much power for direct contact mash heating. I think it is more a combination of watt-density, total volumes and wort speed past the element. I know of 1 setup with 10800w RIMS style heating in the main vessel using just an on-off controller with no main issues. I...

Try the Mangrove Jacks Workhorse yeast for upper temper ferments

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Anyone tried the newest bunch of MJ yeasts? We got quit a few new ones at work, I'm eyeing of the Belgian Abbey and the good old California Lager as a dried yeast.

single rod

Day 4, in theory it should be i the latter stages of ferment, so a few degree temp rise will not be the end of it. I would just pack the fridge as full as you can with water bottles now. Then when they turn the power off with the thermal mass it should minimize the temp rise.

I don't mind S04, but you do need to ensure you don't get a temperature drop. Nottingham is def a reliable yeast, but is nothing like S04, Nottingham is a high attenuation yeast, whilst s04 is the other end of the scale being a low attenuation. They produce different beers. As michael said...

What are you trying to achieve? Do you simply want to turn down the power to the element? If so, then you can achieve it using a specific type of SSR. SSR...

With all elements they have a given temperature coefficient of resistance. So the resistance will increase based on the temperature of the element. Hence at 20c it may calc out to be 2400w, but at 97c it is more likely drawing (approx) 10% under (depending on the actual coefficient).

where will the kittens play? IMHO you are better off to under pressure a ferment than over pressure it. But to answer the direct issue. If the fridge stinks, fix the problem and don't look for symptomatic fixes. Maybe try cleaning it with bicarb?