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It was being discussed because another forum member mentioned that a smaller amount of yeast/trub that is in contact with the beer in a conical is a very beneficial thing. This then lead to a conversation about the merits of this point, including where certain misconceptions may have originated...

You'll find that it is on topic mate, it's a discussion about the merits of what the snub nose version supposedly does and doesn't bring to the table. Just scroll on past if it goes over your head. But it definitely is relevant, because it's to do with one of the reasons why someone may or may...

Which is exactly the stage that is being discussed - after fermentation when everything has all settled in the cone

Interesting, seeing as though you made a claim first

No one is saying that they won't make good beer with them. The discussion regarding hydrostatic pressure, etc. was in response to spork claiming that having having less beer in contact with trub/yeast was good for it, which just doesn't really stand up in the homebrewing world.

I can't give you exact numbers, no, but it's just general physics, isn't it? A tall fermenter with a large volume will exert much more hydrostatic pressure than a much, much smaller volume

I'd disagree with you there. It's a homebrewing scale - contact with trub and yeast is rarely ever an issue. All of this "you need to get the beer off of the yeast as soon as it's hit FG" is relevant to commercial/large volume brewing, where hydrostatic pressure has significant consequences for...

Where did you read that?

Never judge anything by airlock activity. Only ever trust your hydrometer readings. You're not watching it all of the time, it may still be fermenting slowly, and you're just not seeing the bubbling when it happens

Yeahhhhhhhhhh, what they've told you is ********. Heaps of factors play in to how long a yeast gets kicking, not simply whether it is dry or not.

I think that you'll find that the entire unit is quite robust (especially the circuit board, which is significantly better quality than the RB). Besides the thinner plates inside the malt pipe, exactly what other things in the video were comparatively flimsy?

You'll note the word "theoretically" in my post. I'm not saying that it will, I'm saying that it could

It is a pretty pointless comparison, really. In actual use, you have the weight of both the water and grain pushing down on the screen, which then keeps it stable. The reality of usage is completely different to him holding the thing up on its side

Nope, the way that he has it in is right. If you have it in the other way, when the weight of the grain pushes down the middle of the screen it can cause the edges to lift, which can theoretically cause the screen to fall out of the bottom of the malt pipe. The way that he has it, the weight of...

For that OG, yeah it should be fine - provided that the sachet has been kept cold most of the time and isn't really, really old

Keep in mind that (if I'm reading it correctly) that is in a commercial setting - the hydrostatic pressure on the yeast in the cone in a big conical is wayyy higher than that which is exerted on the yeast in our humble homebrewing scale conicals. Therefore the need to get the yeast out of there...

Flocculation isn't what you're looking for here. The haze in NEIPAs should definitely NOT come from yeast being held in suspension. If it is, then that's a poorly made NEIPA. It's about proteins and polyphenols

Don't worry about that - the idea that it happens from having dry hops in for too long is ********. Talk to all of the people who keg hop, leaving the hops in contact with the beer for over a few weeks. Grassiness is about hop variety, not purely keeping the hops in contact with the beer for a...

That's impressive. It shows once again that there are plenty of geese out there who simply make misleading statements because they make assumptions about a certain style of brewing (in this case no-chilling), or can't manage to do it properly themselves so just claim that it can't be done

I just chuck 'em all in 'au naturel'. There's no point removing them from the cube after cube hopping - the hop oils are already in the wort, so if they're going to isomerise due to the temperature, that will happen regardless of whether the hop matter is still in there or not. Re: the dry...