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My understanding was that fly sparging is fancy continuous sparging - "The process is conducted by slowly sprinkling sparge water evenly over the top of the grains while the mash is slowly lautered into the boil kettle. This process of continually adding the sparge water while also lautering is...

But that is completely irrelevant to what I had said - the tannin extraction that I mentioned will come from the crystal malt that you are adding to the boil, due to the temperature

What exactly are you grouping as non-fermentables? Are you talking just crystal malts and roasted malts? (that's the impression that I'm getting). If so, I would think that boiling any malts that aren't dehusked will lead to a **** ton (yes, that's a real unit of measurement) of tannins in the...

I've been thinking about ditching the helix from my setup and just using the SS elbow that I have in this manner. How far from the base does your elbow sit? Care to share a pic?

I enquired about 40L jackets earlier in the week - they didn't give me any sort of definitive answer, and sort of said that it might be another 4-8 weeks

How on earth did you manage that?

Given the details that you shared in your earlier post, I would be thinking that it is a combination of the cleaning chemical that you are using, and more importantly the exposure time. I don't mean this in a rude way, but have you actually read the manual for the product that you are using? It...

Based on what, exactly? I've seen a number of people say similar on other forums and facebook groups, but never had anything to back it up with besides 'pLaStIc Is BaD'

I highly doubt that you could notice any difference due to this when doing a blinded tasting

I'll enter - the heat pad will be better than the heat belt that I've got currently

Just use a set of scales that the keg sits on

Can we get an amen?!

I would definitely be keen on a couple of these - it would make some processes much easier, like using a keg for one step of a double or triple dry hop (dry hop #1 in the fermzilla then transfer to a purged keg with hops and one of these filters for dry hop #2, then transfer to a purged serving...

Yeah, that would have been an incredibly thick mash, given that you would have been at or below 2L/kg, accounting for the deadspace... If you haven't heard of it (and if it hasn't been mentioned to you elsewhere), look in to 'reiterated mashing' for your next attempt at high gravity brewing -...

These have absolutely no bearing on your issues that you mentioned above though. Those issues are purely down to crush size, grain bill, mash thickness and timing of using the pump

"@ 10 to 21 IBU" = at 10 mins to go in the boil, add enough of that hop combination to get 21 IBUs. "added again at flameout, with 30min whirlpool to 19IBU" = the same hop combo for a 30 min whirlpool, enough hops to get 19 IBU out of it So you'll have a butt-ton of late hops, which will get...

I've been actually thinking about swapping the included ball valve out for a 3 piece one for this exact reason...I've been dreading taking the original one off, cleaning it and then trying to get it back on and having it stay watertight too

Anyone who suggests that you need to do this either doesn't really know what they're doing, or is sticking to the old and outdated homebrewing dogma that sparge water needs to be a very specific temperature. As Kea said, you can either sparge with room temp water or you can pre-heat all of your...

Due to not being able to go out and buy some dry yeast on short notice, I've just rediscovered my (at least 3 year old) vial of an overbuild of 090 that was sitting in the back of the fridge. So now I'm just trying to wake it back up to pitch in to an APA, as I have no other 'clean' character...

Cheers