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They don't say that on the web page, but I'm not sure about the videos (I'm not planning on watching them, so hopefully someone else who has can chime in)

Their grain bill seems unnecessarily complex. It's a bit like they tried to get a bit of everything in there that they've read/been told helps. Flaked and malted wheat? Wouldn't just one or the other be fine, especially in such a small amount? What's the role of carapils? Lastly, why have mostly...

Yeah, unfortunately helium doesn't really dissolve in to liquid like CO2 does

I wouldn't be hanging any hats on that data - or more specifically, I wouldn't be over-generalising the results of it. A) It was performed with whole hops cones; B) It was performed with just cascade; C) The dry hop was 24 hours; D) the grain bill was a 'base pale ale' below 5% So, we have no...

And as I've pointed out above, you would be wrong. It's not irrelevant, as you need high protein malts/adjuncts to help form the permahaze. Yes, you're right in that you could make a NEIPA with a single malt, but you could also say that about many other beers as well. Most importantly, just...

Well, no. In my opinion, I would say that you are the one who is wrong. Grain bill is important, because as I mentioned above, proteins are most likely an important part of the haze, as well as contributing to mouthfeel and head formation/retention. Yes, you can make a hazy beer without higher...

Have you had customers/other brewers who have noticed a difference between flaked wheat and just plain wheat malt?

I would say that 1 degree is preferable, but 2 is acceptable. I don't put heaps of weight in the findings from Brulosophy experiments, but they are worth considering - for what it's worth, they found that consistency/stability of temperature is much more important than the actual temp (eg. a...

At the risk of being pedantic (I don't think that pointing this out is, but some will), that's actually not correct (well, probably not correct). The haze is most likely from a reaction between polyphenols (from both the hops and malt) and protein from the malt/adjuncts. This discusses it...

Buddy, there was nothing about it that was nearly ballistic. I simply addressed multiple points in your post directly, pointing out the issues and flaws in each of them. We are all entitled to our own opinions and approaches - mine is that we shouldn't mollycoddle people, and shouldn't hesitate...

This is a commonly repeated piece of homebrewing ********. Many, many homebrewers keg hop and leave the hops in there for over a couple of months, with no hints of grassiness. So that puts the whole argument about time spent with dry hops in the beer to bed. I personally find that it is related...

Do you mean 4-5g/L, or really just 4-5g? If you do actually mean 4-5g, you could get just as much hop character by waving the bag of hops near the fermenter! That isn't dry hopping, that's hop tea. It'll give you a different character, especially if you're doing it with boiling water. The heat...

Except that dry hopping can affect perceived bitterness, so it they still need to be considered when planning desired bitterness

Yes, this is exactly what you need to do. I haven't made a hop addition outside of at the start or end of the boil for a couple of years now, and all of my beers are better for it. I personally think that the whole idea of hops that are put in at a certain time contributing 'more flavour' and...

Not in the all in one systems though... Batch sparging in the all in one systems would just be pouring in batches over the raised malt pipe. As I said, having the malt pipe raised is the equivalent of draining the mash tun in a 3V system. Fly sparging is continuously and slowly pouring the water...

That's exactly what a sparge is. Some homebrewers just like to complicate it too much and think that they have to do fancy fly sparging, because that's how a lot of commercial mash tuns work. Being full volume will definitely make it recirculate much more freely. Because it does that, I would...

My understanding is that differing levels of the chemicals concerned in water chemistry can affect things like efficiency, pH, etc. - to me, this then has implications for just adding to the mash vs adding to both the mash and sparge. eg. adding 10g of something that will affect pH to just the...

What? Either I don't understand what you're trying to say, or your idea of sparging in these is a bit weird. But that's exactly how sparging works on these all-in-one machines. If they do that, then not only will they get a decent efficiency (it's exactly what I do, and I get ~80% brewhouse...

That is exactly what a batch sparge is. You would be batch sparging

You don't need to drain it off and heat it separately. Heat all of your water together, then drain your sparge water off once you're at strike temp. It will only lose 10ish degrees during the mash - temp of sparge water doesn't really matter all that much (unless it is too hot). Also, I...