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No, they were after a method of dry hopping.

One further note about those "teabags" - if your LHBS is anything like mine, they have a bunch of these sitting on a shelf at room temperature. F&ck knows how old they are. If you want good aroma, buy cold stored hops with the harvest date advertised.

A pool noodle works well to insulate a font. Cut it to length, cut it to circumference, it'll sit nice and snug. You're right to be concerned though, they allow plenty of heat in. Consider maybe mounting it off the floor and installing taps in the front door.

That's a very good idea.. using the canister to keep hops out, rather than keeping them in. I'll give this a go. ed: haven't had rust on mine either and have done 10+ brews with them.

A bit pricey at $105 compared to alternatives. Consider that a 9.5L stainless steel corny keg from Cheeky Peak Brewery is $118 w/ free postage - https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Premium-Brand-New-304SS-9L-Ball-Lock-Keg-home-brew-Robobrew-Grainfather/263365989029

I like the idea of using a separate keg for this. I have nothing to back it up, but I assume the C02 produced by a fermenting beer also carries the hop aroma of that beer. Might as well save some for kegging.

If you're getting butter menthol type flavours in your beer, don't throw out what could be perfectly good malt as a result. It's very likely to be diacetyl as you noted. How long did you ferment for?

I'm not an expert - but I'll chime in anyway because I'm an arrogant knob. You can carb in the big keg at room temp, it just means you'll want to set your pressure a fair bit higher since CO2 absorbs slower at warmer temps. Storing finished beer warm will degrade it quicker than if it were...

Greater minds than mine have debunked that "CO2 is heavy" myth many times over. If you bubble oxygen through your beer it's going to be absorbed into it, to some degree. Whether you notice oxidisation as a result is a different story.

..it's also a bit strange that your expected OG was 1.090 from a FWK, but after following the instructions, you hit 30 points lower. If you indeed followed the FWK instructions, I'd say the water wasn't blended in properly and you took a reading from a more watery portion of the wort. Assume you...

Refractometer readings get offset with the presence of alcohol. Warra48 posted a chart somewhere already, but here it is again. Given your reported OG, it appears your brew has finished at ~1.010.

Basically, yes. Boiled water is deoxygenated, but the moment it starts cooling, it'll start re-absorbing O2. Since you wouldn't want to add very hot water to your beer, you'd have to **** around trying to cool the water without introducing O2, ie using a sealed minikeg and pressurising with CO2...

PMing you Ben

Oh ****. I well may buy more than just the fridge.

Another symptom of a dirty glass. Can't comment on the kit you used, I've not used it myself, but I assume it'd have some level of head retention.

The glass might look spotless but those bubbles clinging to the side imply otherwise.

Yeah, like that. Purge quick and watch 'em dance. This is also a great method of ensuring maximum dry hop effectiveness.

In addition to Grott's comments - your recipe may simply not lend well to head retention. Chuck up your recipe (or kit name if doing a kit)

An easy way to re-seal your hop packets after opening is to vacuum seal. This would obviously require that you buy your hops from a sponsor who uses vacuum sealed packets, ie Brewman. DU99 threw up a link for these Sunbeam vac sealers in the eBay / gumtree finds thread -...

Try purging pressure quickly. You'd be surprised how much that agitates the sediment. Might just be enough to loosen that plug that's formed