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I can agree on the beginning all grain brewer tending to go overboard on the specialty malts. I've only just come off that now after maybe 20 AG brews of wild experimental stuff. I wouldn't change anything because I now know first hand exactly what it does but at the same time I've learned why...

I've been loving the MO for a while now and will be picking up some GP (haven't tried this before) shortly which has me thinking: Do the two base malts tend to mix well together, like a 50/50 grist? I want to try a 100% GP first to get a general understanding of the malt I could imagine a mix...

Thanks again Mark. I'm using a chinese digital Ebay special.. and he has an old school glass type. I'll definitely check out Brewman' site over the coming days and pick one up! Ps, he's just confirmed it was a cheap one. I'm also thinking it's possible like you said that he's mashing too high...

That's a great answer Mark, thanks! I was going to mention maybe try another thermometer but didn't think there'd be much diff. Definitely will mention it now

I have a good mate who's relatively new to all grain brewing and struggling to hit expected fg. He's coming out around 1.015 every batch I've just discovered though that he's heating to mash temp 66 then turning flame out and adding grain.. I'd expect the temp to drop to around 61 right after...

Be pretty darn steamy up there too I'd say!

I bought some 54l tubs w/lids that are the tightest sealing I could find there and found the $3 absorbers same isle Ingredients list just calcium chloride, so that explains why my bag for brewing is looking worse for wear! Was going to buy the 30l sealable water containers but for $25ea...

Legendary!

I can't seem to find those online?

Cool man, thanks I might try to only work with them in the A/C on humid days in that case

It's whole, un-milled grain Also: I notice the Barrett Burston bags are plastic lined. Does that mean if I squeeze the air out it's as good as a sealed container? Thomas Fawcett bags aren't lined though

Hey guys, I've recently purchased quote a few bags of base malt and live in a very humid climate. To give you an idea, if I don't run the A/C, our walls can become wet and start dripping in places.. mould is a real problem so we try to keep aircon on but aren't always here to do so. Even a day...

Yes it 'seems' too soon, I agree. But it works well for me. I recommend trying it for yourself

I believe cooling liquid absorbs more oxygen. Don't quote me on this and hopefully someone can either confirm or dismiss but cooling beer helps bottled products absorb carbonation from the headspace so can't see this being any different Cold crashing also has a second pitfall, being shrinkage...

Ps, I've been dry hopping day two or three with the best results I've ever had. No reason to change anytime soon unless there's good reason not to

Did you also cold crash? Opening the lid on a fermenter after primary lets alot of carbon dioxide out and alot of oxygen in. Just how much is taken up by the liquid isn't clearly known but the evidence also clearly points to oxidation or at least a beer not as aromatic as it could have been...

Are you dry hopping during active fermentation? And are you cold crashing?

Now hold on a minute man. You're so very close, don't give up now! Go back and read through or post your process here and we'll see if we can critique it. My last pale was Pirate to a T and seemed to get even hoppier with time for once! My tips: 1. Use only FRESH hops. If they smell a little...

Second page here

Thought I'd post an article by John Palmer I'm reading since it's so fitting. Hoping it's legible. Cheers!