Think about the things you expect a home brew shop to have when you stop in. Malts to brew a wide range of beers, plenty of US-05, good variety of hops and yeasts (for both ales and lagers) that appropriately packaged and stored. Sodium perc and sanitiser. A mill for customers to use for their...
You held the malt pipe for 40 minutes, that's just showing off!
Doesn't the 70 litre have multiple steps on the malt pipe? Why not lift to the first, sparge a bit, lift to the second, sparge a bit, etc.
I found a manual from Braumarkt for their Arsegan. File says too large for me to upload, but it looks like a Guten, and operates like a Guten, so it must be, right?
There's been chatter about people picking up the new Guten 70 litre, maybe check with some of them on their experience with it.
Alternatively can you simplify your current system and still get the volume you're wanting?
Post a picture or detailed description of your current set up and maybe...
The 9 litres is your mash tun dead space so you need to add it your total water calculated with your water/grist ratio.
If you're using a brewing software enter the dead space amount into your equipment profile and it should add for you.
That sucks. Move to Australia!
Well not knowing what kind of space you're working with another option to consider would be brewing larger batches (45-60 litres) and cubing them up in 15 litre cubes. Then you have a stock to pull from when ready to brew your next beer. You could brew up a simple...
The liquid malt, dextrose, and enhancers/boosters are different methods of getting additional fermentable sugars in your brew. In simple terms malt extract allows you to add fermentables while also maintaining the flavour and body also provided by the malt. Dextrose is pretty much just giving...
1. Go to local Homebrew shop
2. Tap bank card to eftpos machine
3. They give you 15 litres of cubed wort.
No squeezing required. Wort is cooled and ready for yeast.
If you're looking for a good resource to learn about all grain brewing I would recommend buying How to Brew by John Palmer. If you just want the basics for now and want to put your money towards ingredients the first edition is free online at www.howtobrew.com
I have been waiting on the adjustable malt pipe piece and grooved lifting handle. Are they selling the handles in shop too? What about the metal lids? I know I am going to break my glass lid at some point, don't much care about the distillation part I just want a lid that isn't going to shatter.
Put some soapy water around any connections to test for leaks. If the leak is coming from your posts ,lid or disconnects put some lubricant on the orings or replace them.
Looks like the extract hasn't dissolved well and you water settling in top. I'm sure once fermentation starts it will turn over and absorb into the brew.
This assuming picture was taken fairly early.
I went with the Guten over the Brewzilla when I upgraded from robo2. I liked peace of mind the extra volume gave me as I had a couple close calls with boil overs with the robo2. So far so good. I still keep a spay bottle around just in case I need but haven't had too. Could be the wider kettle...
I use the tap to transfer to my snub nose. I'm using a 40 litre so it's no problem to have it sitting a bit higher on a rack so the tap is just above the top of my fermenter. If I'm cubing I'll just set the kettle on a milk crate as it's a good height for running wort out of the tap to the cube...
I use full power to get to strike temp then will lower to about 1200-1500 for the mash. I like that the power is easily adjustable. On hot day I may run it at 1200. Cold winter day I may run it at 1500. I just watch how the temperature is holding and adjust accordingly. Last Brew I forgot to...