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Yeah I was taking a swipe at JW and BB. I'm fully behind the little boutique maltsters.

The temperature limit is inversely proportional to the pressure you'll apply to it. I have that exact unit (use it for its original purpose though) and I sterilise it with 90+ degree water, pumped through. If you keep to pump pressure I have no doubt it'll be fine.

There's no point using the relays I mentioned if your PIDs are running on mains power. The whole point of a control voltage is to minimise the number of components that use mains voltage. So NOTHING should be 240V apart from: Main isolating switch Elements and their SSR Pumps And the load-side...

Hahaha, all good Relays are basically a little switch that controls a bigger switch. The SSRs are solid state versions; a traditional (mechanical) relay is actually tiny little electromagnets which physically throw a switch. The relay can have double poles (DP) with double throw (DT) - DPDT -...

Depends on the shipping method and the costs you're paying, I suppose. Everything you need can be bought here, some things can be more expensive but Sydney certainly isn't some remote backwater. Australia is the world's largest malting-grade barley exporter so plenty of that to go around. Just...

I use a 0.01g scale for my salts and hops. Was about $20 from memory - cheaper because it can only measure to 500g. For malt, I just use cheap Big W spring kitchen scales. I might upgrade this soon though - a bit agricultural

Yes, everything that has to pass a certain current must be rated for it. Look, relays aren't essential. If you're not confident in designing it, then I'd stay away. I think the KISS principle should be applied here if you're not confident with electronics. At some point you're gonna have to...

Indeed, this is how a lot of hydraulic accumulators were designed prior to 1950s. Honestly though, it's a shitload easier and cheaper buying a good spunding valve than trying to rig up some hydraulic rig to apply backpressure to your keg. The CO2 needs to be exhausted, so if you were going down...

Yes, static pressure is height (m) x density (kg/m3) x acceleration due to gravity (m/s2) = Pa (N/m2)

I guess that's what a shitstorm is?

It'll be like Masterchef. Lots of tears, suspense and strategically placed ad breaks. Honestly I don't see it taking off - brewing involves a bit too much science for the typical reality TV show fan.

Hop oils can be easily extracted at home using butane and some basic understanding of safety. It's no more dangerous than cooking dinner. Butane is lighter fluid and obviously highly volatile and flammable. I take no responsibility for anyone's loss, injury or other damages as a result of this...

So after doing 24 hr tests on each of my lines (minus one which has no disconnect), all but 2 have slow leaks. These all take a few hours to notice any change whatsoever. We're talking very slow indeed. Splits or pinholes would be far faster. I have 4 SS disconnects on the way, so I'll swap in...

Yeah a CB for each major draw, if you correctly size the breaker, can avoid "commissioning complications". Ie if your heater draws too much current, you'll trip a common CB in your residence. Have to reset clocks, might annoy people etc. But you'll not know what actually caused it. Wheras if you...

The success of a seamer lies in both the chucks themselves and the can blanks and lids. If the chucks are made to the correct profile with good close tolerances, and the can blanks and lids are also the right profile, then it should be fine. If you're not running at somewhat fast speeds where...

Yeah Clean In Place Lol sorry. Got all worked up for nuffin! Yeah I don't see any reason why not. The only issue is stream mixing when you change from one port to the other - not really an issue I don't think with hot side.

Do whatever you like. I'm just saying that if you're after sanitary you'll need a butterfly valve. Ball valves are designed to be very reliable under harsh conditions, not to be sanitary. Breaking down valves after 4-5 brews/batches would be considered exceptionally frequent, even for a dairy...

It isn't hard at all to determine how much CO2 is in solution. You just need the pressure (on the gauge) and temperature (on your fridge), and have given it enough time to equilibriate (days). Then look up a solubility chart. It's all more or less proportional, so if you have half the CO2...

The "best practice" is for 3 piece valves. People here say that they're designed that way so you can clean them, but they're really like that to replace the seats when they're worn or if you want some way to break your pipework without cutting. No one cleans ball valves in industry by breaking...

Just give it more time. Highly unlikely under those conditions to have truly halted.