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Not a good sign. They are non-serviceable. If you've checked the volute and impeller, then the only other moving parts are the shaft bearings and seal. Since it's been running noisy, I'm almost certain the bearings have gone. Lube won't help now.

Look up a mechamasher. It's an auger injector that mixes grist with strike water as the grist comes out of the mill.

If you want the authority on crazy slugs, this guy's your man.

Yeah, you can do it that way. I personally wouldn't because thermodynamics works on mass - volume is not really ever used for this kind of analysis. Specific heat capacity, latent heat capacity etc etc is all expressed as mass-based so your watts/L is just watts/kg divided by density. But...

That isn't the effect of vessel volume as such, it's specific boiling power (watts/kg). You'd get the same effect if you kept a 20L boil and made the power 200 kW or something crazy.

That's the flow chart for vegetable oil refining, which would include margarine, oils, waxes etc. If you took one for milk (ie butter), it would be pretty similar in complexity.

If you're looking to accelerate the reactions in the boil, then it would be worth understanding the reaction kinetics (if anyone's actually done that research; it would be rather difficult). I think what a lot of people in this thread are angling at is: Yes, there is no data regarding boil...

Hallertau as a dry hop can introduce some grassiness. Not as bad as saaz, but I'd skip the dry hop to save more for the boil to compensate for the lower AA

It's better to make a bypass from the pump outlet to the pump inlet, and put a valve in there. This will more accurately control your flow than simply throttling the pump. What you really want is an atemperation loop, as we call it. The problem is you'll need another pump, and a cooling water...

Hi mate, yeah it will affect your pressure readings, UNLESS your pressure gauges are calibrated for atmospheric pressure at that altitude (they won't be).

Well spotted. It was right when I wrote the article, i can't say what the editor did. The article is very much dumbed down from the original submission I made, and it looks like during the reformatting the last two cells were duplicated.

Interesting. I hope it survives the brutal life of a commercial keg.

I get nervous putting hot water into kegs without a vacuum breaker fitted...

This is opposite of true.

Do some searching and reading. There is more than ample information out there explaining how to do this on both this forum and the internet at large. It is more complicated than just whacking some tube in.

Yeah, every night is insane and a crazy waste of chemicals. If it was a bit of dairy equipment, then sure. But beer is a very stable product; even unpasteurised it's not considered perishable. I just flush with hot water between kegs. Caustic is great, but if you're getting that much build up...

I had exactly the same issue as AHB, but simply because I underestimated the self-heating effects of a cider fermentation, didn't put a heater on the controller, and it went too cold and then swung around a bit. Very sulphurous on the nose, and horrendous solventy acetalhyde. Whereas the cider...

Shaft couplers are to absorb harmonic vibrations, not to absorb giant torque shocks btw.

Damn, you certainly go above and beyond when compared to my old masking tape and sharpie labels. If something's going to freeze, it's most likely to freeze in the beer line. You'll know when you open the tap and nothing happens.

Ah ok, it looks rather hefty so I wasn't sure if it was >100kg or something. I spose it's just an icebox, not a fridge.