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The cellulose in Chux might break down in mashing, so probably not a great idea for a grain bag, but they are fine for hop bags. I prefer sewing my own from voile though. Also, no one has sued Coopers yet for recommending Chux. ;)

Does anyone routinely dry hop on day 0, i.e. at time of yeast pitch? Normally you wouldn't, as (biotransformation conjecture aside) the CO2 from primary fermentation is said to drive off volatile aromatic compounds in hops. However, if you're pressure fermenting, would it be expected to...

Wouldn't it be a lot easier to have the beer in the bag and the air pressure externally? That mitigates the problem of having a perfectly-sized bag that has to physically displace every part of the keg.

They do sound like a great idea. I think they would be even more amazing if able to be used in portable growlers for friends that don't have CO2 gear. Having to buy tiny 8-16 g CO2 cartridges is painful.

Welcome. You've got some nice gear there. I've only recently got into David Heath myself and think he has the best homebrewing channel on YouTube. (With The Homebrew Challenge and Fast Homebrew as a good couple of subscriptions too.) Keen to see your recipes!

35 L won't fit elsewhere though (i.e. in my drawer/cupboard). It's excessively big. I also live in Qld, so my fridge definitely doesn't have heating control :p

Tempting. If it came in 20 L and had temp control, I’d be sold.

Also, if you want to do huge ("standard") batches like 19-23L+, and you have an outdoor area suitable, consider rigging up a pulley so you can lift the grain bag and let it drip. Combine that with the hinged twin-tennis-racquet idea that someone posted, and you can squeeze your bag in no time...

That, and unfortunately, drinking culture. Quantity of piss over quality. Otherwise kit and kilo wouldn't exist.

Couldn't agree more. Also making beers for 75c each that would cost $10-18 per can/bottle from any of the smaller craft beer mobs is amazing.

Bugger. Thanks for the info though. Does that mean you remove it from the post? Or do you put something on to open the poppet so it can drain out? With how hard it is to get the tubing on, I wouldn’t want to risk breaking it by removing it every time...

I store it connected in Starsan, as it’s impossible to completely dry and I don’t want nasties growing. I’ve heard conflicted reports about starsan damaging silicone. Was hoping it wasn’t true. Aside from storage, the tubing will always be full of starsan residue while I’m fermenting, unless...

Anyone else had a problem with the silicone dip tube splitting on their Fermenter King Junior, right where it connects to the liquid post? I've had to cut it back twice now. I think the shoulder on the stainless bit is a bit too sharp. Any fixes other than modifying it on a lathe?

Just an update. I made my own measuring cylinder by turning a base from some 50 mm aluminium round bar and epoxying it to the acrylic tube above. Really happy with how it turned out. It only uses 150-175 mL of beer and is super stable with the weighty base.

Contrarian, could you please share your malt bill for your Nanny State version?

I don't know those beers, but check out DIY Dog by BrewDog. Nanny State is 0.5%, Doodlebug is 2.5% and All Day Long is 2.7%.

That seems more in line with what their website says – 5750 W element, which would peak at 24 A at 240 V. 15 kW would be 36 A at 415 V or 62.5 A on 240 V. Has yours been modified?

Geez. How do you even power that? 3 phase with 36 amps?

I think it's great. I've never used it in that high of a proportion, but you can use it as up to 100% of the grist. Your malt bill is very safe. You'll end up with something similar to SNPA with the use of Cascade.

100% kegged for beers for me. Occasionally pull a bottle off the keg to give away. I don't miss the forever-state-of-mess that bottling brings, but I did enjoy the process of learning how to pseudo bulk prime and TIG welding my own aluminium bottling tree. NB: I only ever bottled back when I...