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Fair correction. While it has similar concentrations of phosphoric acid and DDB sulfonic acid, it’s not the same recipe. I was just trying to make the point that it’s not like Stellarsan is a diluted knockoff that doesn’t work. Glad you like the KK stuff. Might try it once my sanitiser runs out...

What made you arrive at 15 g/L for the dry hop? Are you familiar with the Dr Shellhammer work with the 8 g/L "sweet spot" for dry hopping? Notably, he found that oils responsible for citrus-type flavours saturated earlier (closer to 4 g/L) with tea and herbal flavours at a higher rate. This may...

Starsan isn't expensive, other than for the fact we live in Australia and you're paying for Starsan + retail markup + GST + customs + international shipping. Hence, Stellarsan isn't a cheaper inferior product. It's the same thing with fewer middlemen.

Their reasoning, as you reiterated, would make perfect sense, provided they didn't still sell 0-15 and 0-30 psi gauges. Selling the gauges separately has the same risks (for lack of a better word) as selling them with the regulator. To imply otherwise is asinine. Edit: Easy. You should open...

I get that you want to make things as simple as possible. But by consumer law, you also have to guarantee that the 0-15 and 0-30 psi gauges work “as is”. Installing such a gauge as directed by the supplier does not void these statutory rights. It also wouldn’t be classed as an aftermarket...

But the 0-15 and 0-30 psi gauges exist, so why aren't you worried about customers damaging those? Why do we have to buy a 0-60 psi gauge, which has NO use in homebrew? Ah **** it, just charge the extra $8 and keep the redundant gauge.

KL, is there any chance you could offer the Duotight Inline In Line Regulator with a choice of gauge? I know you can buy the gauges separately, but it just seems a bit wasteful to have to buy an extra gauge for each one, and toss a bunch of 0-60 psi gauges out, when they really aren't...

This is an excellent point. A lot of savings are lost if you have to buy a $30,000 endoscope to see if it's clean.

That sounds amazing, especially at $5. I’d want to ferment and serve so translucent would be preferable.

Store grain it it. Should comfortably hold a 25 kg sack of the good stuff.

Full-volume mash? Can you elaborate on why this is easier to automate? Do you pump the wort away into the kettle, and leave the grains behind? Couldn't you equally automate lifting a grain basket out?

Welcome to AHB! A few points until someone more knowledgeable comes along with better advice: 1. "Just do it and see what happens." This is a pretty safe recipe, so it's unlikely to turn out unenjoyable. 2. You don't need to mash roasted grains (including Carafa) or crystal malts. I'd suggest...

To be honest, I haven't made a lot of cider, as I prefer beer. That said, my first couple of brews I ever did, were in peak Queensland summer and reached 27-28°C a couple of times, even with a water bath. The beer was delicious. I think it's worth just bottling it.

Ah apologies for misinterpreting. Yep, you could do that. Alternative would be to just start your mash about 1-2 L under volume and add boiling water at every step temp increase until you hit the new temp.

Yep, they're great. The Wi-Fi model is a good way to go, as it's otherwise annoying to change temperatures for cold crashing (and step fermentation if you're into that sort of thing).

Seeing as a consistent 85% mash efficiency is possible with an 0.8 mm mill gap and full-volume mashing, you'd really have to be pushing 92-93% for this to be worth it. Also, temp control is much easier with bigger volumes. If it drops more than 1-2°C in an hour, add blankets until it doesn't.

Best: Gumtree fridge + temperature controller. Second best: Kveik. Gets old fast but works: bucket of water + rotating frozen soft drink bottles of water. Add a t-shirt to the fermenter to get an evaporative cooling effect.

This is very much a "How long is a piece of string?" question, and there are many many many many different opinions. I'd say the most common is high krausen (24-36 hours) + 3-5 days prior to packaging. Another common opinion is that a single large dry hop is fine. I don't have the...

In! Also, careful of the 306s, guys. They are heating only – which may not be what you want in Australia.

Wouldn't surprise me if you needed a lot of it, especially with 10% Carapils not having a statistically significant effect in a previous Brulosophy study. I've heard other brewers suggesting to just mash hotter instead. I've only ever used it once in an extract+steeped grains recipe, where it...