Search results

It does not need to be any more complicated than this. I have a fermzilla and have the heating belt around the stand and not on the fermenter.

Using the kegland pco1881 tee & carb caps. You fill a bottle the same way you would a keg. Just crack open one of the fittings to release the pressure for the beer to flow in.

Not sure if it's possible but probbaly. If you wanted the 3 outlets like the tapping head (beer, gas, PRV) then maybe use 2 tees.

I just fill a few PET beer bottle and throw them in the kegerator. I pressure ferment at a particular higher pressure so when I cold crash it's carbinated and ready to drink straight away, therefore I fill the PET bottles and just drink them whenever.

I have made many coffee stouts. A simple way would be to buy a 100g vacuum pack of ground coffee, boil it up in a pot, strain it through a chux cloth and add the liquid directly to your brew. Works a treat.

My process is to set the temp to 2degC. This normally takes the best part of a day to reach from 24degC. Then I add gelatin to aid in dropping the sediment out plus it helps with head retention. The wait another 24 hours and keg. Drink it straight away if you want, I do. Let it age later in the...

The keg isn't actually full of foam, the beer just foams up when you pour it. This is caused by eithert the keg pressure is too high, the beer line is too short for the desired pressure or te keg temperature is too high. Have a look at a CO2 chart to find an appropriate temp and pressure for...

2 weeks is more than enough to have a brew done. Get off the forum and get brewing haha!

I wouldn't worry about it too much. If you or others don't notice anything then you're doing a good job. It's probably just me but either way I don't have to deal with it any more now I'm using kegs 😊

It hasn't seemed to cause me any issues over the last year since I've been doing it. If you had any concerns about oxygen then just leave the keg connected for longer. My keg is normally purged of sanatiser within the first 24 hours but you could always just leave it connected for longer and...

Nope, I doubt that very much. I always brewed my beer in a controlled environment with temperature control. Maybe a little less control while bottle carbing but still in a warmed cupboard for a week to carbonate, then in a cool cupboard for storage. I would like to taste a beer from someone who...

I know the all-grain brewers will hate me for this but I'm still happy with making beer from kits for now. I commonly experiment with my beers with all sorts of additives. I add hop pellets often to IPAs ect to give them a little extra kick but I have recently aquired some fresh hops and I was...

Are you sure you are accounting for all the bits and pieces that normally come with a kit?

.

This is true with PET but I'm pretty sure an oxygen barrier is added to stop this. Plus there's been many times a beer hasn't last as long as 6 months in a bottle ;)

The general rule with bottle conditioning is the longer the better (to a certain point of course). I used to have enough bottles to last 6 months of conditioning before I drank them. Not sure if it's true about kit beer giving the homebrew taste as I still use kits now I'm on kegs I don't have...

I bottled for 13+ years mainly because that's what I learned and I didn't even really know about kegging. Once I heard about kegging I did all the research and got everything on order. This was over a year ago now. I will never go back to bottles. The quality of kegging over bottles is the best...

If you're using PET bottles you don't have to botherwith the purging. Just fill the bottles as much as you can, then before putting the lid on, squeeze the beer up to the top. That pushes all the air out.

I guess that would be a good option. I'm sure there's plenty who'd like to upgrade but don't want to have to buy a whole new setup. Also, just wondering why the lid design stayed the same on the gen 3? Are 4" or 5" tri-clover fittings not a thing or too expensive etc? I know you're bringing...

Has there been any thought in making an adaptor from the gen2 fermzilla valve to a tri-clover collection container? I've only owned my gen2 for a year and the biggest annoyance is the sticking collection chamber. It would be great to only have to buy an adaptor and a tri-clover collection...