The colour will change a lot when the haze drops out, but yes that is rushing it a bit.
If you want a more Golden Hue a little, say 3-5% Carramalt (the UK ones are good, as is CarraHell, third for me would be the Au Carramalt) all give a golden hue (Orange I cant help you there...)
Before you try to get control of mixed gas dispense, it would be a good idea to get your head around normal carbonation and hopefully some of the maths that underpins it. Have a read through the relevant sections on Braukaiser.
From there if you google up mixed gasses you will find heaps but...
The inner geek is thinking you should have bottled a couple without purging or squeesing to get O2 out of the head space, then later you compare to the purged/squeesed bottles.
You can see a bit of sediment in the bottom of the bottles, sort of indicates you may have bottled a bit early.
It can be used to de-air water, this is brewing so here comes the but!
Its very sour, enough to scrub finished beer will be enough to be very noticeable in the flavour.
If you want Low DO, or even approaching zero O2 you need to start planning oxygen exclusion from before you mash in.
More recent studies indicate that the Oxygen will do lots of harm before its consumed by the yeast. That's the simple answer, long one gets way more complex, once O2 is involved in reactions it can get sort shared around, acts like a free radical and just keeps doing harm and the yeast cant get...
Sure, take it you do a bit of welding. Just like purging before welding stainless, it is more expensive and you will use more but it will do the job.
Assuming its pure Argon, not a blend with O2, worth checking that first.
Just had a chat to Keg Services about something else, I'll second Grumblz, well worth a call.
Absolutely agree, the Chinese kegs are better than they were (complete crap) but the German (and other European) kegs are way better quality, often where it doesn't show like the welds when seen from...
I think there are one or two, but they tend to think in 40' containers (emphasis on the plural).
If you are looking for small quantities the KegLand offering is about as good as you will do.
The Type A Slider is way better, for home or small brewing I would spay (cut off the little safety tag)...
The obvious answer is to bank yeasts you want to use.
Every other answer is what the respondent would like to have to hand.
My house(ish) Ale is W 1084 have a look at it, pretty versatile.
For Pilsner probably Czech Pilsner (Budvar) W 2000
You should work out what you want to use and play...
Don't see much wrong with it, other than the obvious Wyeast miss choice. Personally I would try Irish Ale (W1084), comes as close as any to being a house yeast for me.
Trouble with living in a bubble (AHB) where it's hops, hops and more hops skews your thinking, 30 IBU will be plenty.
Brew it as...
Frankly the whole recipe isn't much like LCPA! I have had a long conversation with a brewer who was making the first version (still the best) that's very much what the recipe in BrewBuilder is based on.
The were using Australian grown Golding for Bittering, it wasn't available in less than tons...
Got a face full of Cl gas once, couldn't smell or taste much for months. I'm still pretty sensitive to Chlorine, the faintest trace feels like a barbwire pull-through up the sinuses.
Would rather swim in the sea.
I cant give you the answer you seem to want. From the pictures in the book you have yes it would appear that people were doing BIAB some time ago. There is a but or two so here goes.
I think that its fair and reasonable to say that Pat re/invented the concept of BIAB (and the name)...
Its very important to rack or bottle the beer cold.
Lagering in large part is causing what in Ale would be called chill haze to form then giving it time to sink to the bottom. This type of haze is caused by high molecular weight proteins joining up with polyphenols, its the removal of this...