I too started with a kegerator and it wasnt long before I got sick of defrosting it from icing over then messing about with ways to keep the font cool fans, insulation blah blah blah - Qld humidity certainly doesn’t help at all !
So here’s a start on the data base
Kegerator- bad
F&P - bad...
I bought a second hand f&p - lasted 6months before the compressor died - So I bought the Westinghouse brand new and should have done right from the start !
Was pretty disappointed after all the time put in
Depends on yeast but I ferment in temp controlled chamber - (fridge plus inkbird and reptile heater) it’s in the shed so 6-9 months a year the temp is pretty stable around 18-20c fine to let an ale rip
My point exactly, if you can open ferment in a timber vessel using yeast from a stick hanging by the door and still make drinkable beer then you can afford to try stuff out - not saying be careless with sanitation, good sanitation equals less risk of infections - you won’t know what you like...
I too ferment in keg with spunding… buy yourself a bucket and enjoy a different process … I wonder how brewers fermented before kegs / pressure vessels / stainless steel / sanitiser …. Worry less brew more
Some very basic numbers for your profile
Grain absorption- 1L per kg
Boil off 3L per hour
Dead space 6.6L
Trub loss 2L
Pay attention to these measurements and fine tune your profile
Hey Brad,
For a batch around 5kg of grain I am aiming for 21L into a fermenter - usually gives me a full 19L keg of nice clean beer after cold crash. I usually start at around 31L in the Guten - do my water treatments then pump off around 10ish L for sparge depending on what Brewfather tells...
This one I only found by sheer luck, wasn’t part of a system thankfully was on a transfer line, it’s the only one out of maybe 30 … pretty happy with them other than that