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The Aussiehomebrewer Brewing Guide


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#1 Doc

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 02:27 PM

Ok brewers.

Here is the first installment of the AussieHomeBrewers brewing guide, lovingly written and compiled by Jayse.

Enjoy,
Doc

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#2 Doc

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Posted 21 January 2004 - 02:29 PM

I will close this topic.

If anyone has any questions etc based on this then ask in the normal place (after consulting the Frequently Requested Links/Topics thread in The Pub).

Based on any comments etc, then updates may/will be contemplated.

Beers,
Doc

#3 dane

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Posted 07 December 2006 - 10:24 AM

This is the discussion topic for article: Making the Switch from Partials to AG

#4 jayse

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Posted 15 August 2007 - 10:47 PM

Ok just reopened this topic.
Time to overhaul this article as theres some stuff there thats outdated and some stuff thats really stupid so post your ideas brewers. be mindfull it is from 4 years ago at least when i wrote the bastard.

#5 jayse

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Posted 15 August 2007 - 11:25 PM

jebus :lol: just reading it again for the first time in years and it is well and truelly time for a rehash.
For the most part all is good but theres some stuff thats just plain embrassing that I put in so go easy guys.

Gunna take a bit of work to bring it up to here and now.
Nearly 2000 downloads isn't a bad effort though and it served its purpose but times are changing and there clearly some aspects of it that could be put better.

#6 Fents

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 08:27 AM

mate this guide was my bible when i started my AG. read it about 2 times the night before then another time in the morning before the mash. biggups!

I'll have a look at it again and see if i can bring anything to the table from a 1 or 2 yr old AG'er.

Edited by Fents, 16 August 2007 - 08:28 AM.


#7 Wardhog

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 08:55 AM

How about a short preface to the technical detail?

Eg.
What is beer?

Simplistically, Beer = Malt + Hops + Yeast + Water.

Malt and hops suspended in water, yeast eats sugar, beer results. However, there can be a hell of a lot more to it, should you be dissatisfied with the beer you make from a can with some instructions under the lid.

The kit cans you buy from the supermarket deal with the first two ingredients for you, the bad thing about this is that you don't get a lot of choice how the end product will taste, you only really control the latter two ingredients.
This guide is to show you how to not rely on cans of hopped extract (kits) to make beer. Thid guide will show you how to extract malt sugars from grain and blend in hops, leading to a much more customisable and higher-quality beer that will be an end to eyes rolled skywards and "Ok, I'll taste some of your homebrew if I must" from your mates.

Edited by Wardhog, 16 August 2007 - 08:55 AM.


#8 jayse

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Posted 16 August 2007 - 10:17 AM

mate this guide was my bible when i started my AG. read it about 2 times the night before then another time in the morning before the mash. biggups!

I'll have a look at it again and see if i can bring anything to the table from a 1 or 2 yr old AG'er.


Cheers, I have to thank PoMo for the grammer editing and turning some of my ramblings into actuall english and making it more readable.

How about a short preface to the technical detail?

Eg.
What is beer?

Simplistically, Beer = Malt + Hops + Yeast + Water.

Malt and hops suspended in water, yeast eats sugar, beer results. However, there can be a hell of a lot more to it, should you be dissatisfied with the beer you make from a can with some instructions under the lid.

The kit cans you buy from the supermarket deal with the first two ingredients for you, the bad thing about this is that you don't get a lot of choice how the end product will taste, you only really control the latter two ingredients.
This guide is to show you how to not rely on cans of hopped extract (kits) to make beer. Thid guide will show you how to extract malt sugars from grain and blend in hops, leading to a much more customisable and higher-quality beer that will be an end to eyes rolled skywards and "Ok, I'll taste some of your homebrew if I must" from your mates.


Thanx for the input.

I think we'll leave out the what beer actually is bit as it sort of is assumed by this stage people have a pretty good idea. The idea was/is to have it be a more practical article rather than technical to help people with the actual process of getting the first brew down.
I did put in a couple lines about the malts the kits are made with being inferior to the craft brewing malts that are available but that whole section does need a overhaul.

Cheers
Jayse

#9 matti

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 05:10 AM

Jayse,
First of all I must thank you for that little essay as it was funny and educational.
I recall reading it when I started brewing partial about 2 years ago.
My intentions to go the whole hog is about to materialize in coming months and I though it was worth a read again..
Still educating and still amusing.

I think your opinions regarding one step at a time is extremely valid as I too jumped into the deep end.

I have read John Palmers book and Gregory Noonans book to educate myself and find that I would rather read something of your's regarding brewing as you seem to have your head screwed on and talking in metric terms.

I am going to stop getting browny points up from you and simply suggest that if you are going to update this version,

Try to structure as it takes you through the process.
intro
preparation
mashing
sparging
boil
fermentation
Racking how to and benefits
etc etc

You can still tell us about that you don't like Paul McCartney and what you preferences are.
It is fantastic that we have people like you here and keep it up.
Matti

Edited by matti, 18 August 2007 - 05:11 AM.


#10 Jazzafish

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 09:09 AM

I agree with structuring of the article as commented by matti. However under chapters matti had listed, some sub categories. Recon it will be a cut and paste job mostly :unsure:

For example under a chapter of Mashing, some sub categories.

WHAT IS MASHING?

Mashing is a brewing term that describes the conversion of starches in grain to the fermentable sugars needed.... Yada yada yada

DOING THE MASH

Mashing can be done by the following popular methods: Water to Grain, Grain to Water or Underletting (and even possibly other kinky ways I'm not aware of)! Basically brewing systems vary and suit different methods.

I think if you take the time to explain popular methods with as little emotion or opinion as possible, it will give a fair representation of how Aussiehomebrewers brew, as the title represents the forums members.

But you can always change the title to the "Jayse Method" if you don't want the article to represent us all! :lol:

Edit: changed a spelling mistake, then got bored of it

Edited by Jazzafish, 18 August 2007 - 09:11 AM.


#11 fixa

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 10:01 AM

Maybe implementation of BIAB and no- chill?



/me Ducks for cover

#12 domonsura

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Posted 18 August 2007 - 12:05 PM

Maybe implementation of BIAB and no- chill?
/me Ducks for cover



ahem.... :unsure:

Anyway, I've never seen this guide Jayse, so I'm gonna sit back and have a read - I might learn something! (quite likely actually.....:) )
I wish I'd noticed it a ways back when I dove in boots and all, might have saved me some time and cash...

#13 Reveler

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Posted 22 August 2007 - 12:16 AM

i'm printing it off to read before bed.. maybe I can move towards AG

#14 PHARSYDE

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Posted 28 May 2009 - 01:10 PM

Great read Jayse,

Given me heaps of inspiration to brew and to pull out the old Led Zepp records.....

Fantastic..

'I saw a lion standing on a corner with a tad pole in jar'. = Led Zeppelin - Dancing Days (Page/Plant) Awesome :beerbang:

Pharsyde



#15 hughyg

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:10 PM

Hi Guys
Im gonna do the lcba ag but have scaled down to 24L
Can someone check my list of what to do? Im trying to be a bit more systematic for this brew
90min boil. 30L preboil 6 lost to evap = 24L postboil = 23 L into fermenter and 1L trub

Preboil volume needed = 30L = +13L (mash) - 5L(grain absorption) + 4L (mash out) - 1L(deadspace in mash tun) + 19(sparge water)

1) Mash - 5.1 kg grain with 13L mash @ 65.6C
2) Mashout - with boiling water approx 4L to 78C leave for 10mins
3) Batch Sparge with 19L @ 78C
4) 30L for 90min boil. 6L lost to evap
5) Cool with immersion chiller
6) Stir, leave to settle, rack to fermenter and pitch yeast 1056
7) Primary for a week
8) Rack to secondary for a week
9) Filter to keg
10) set reg to 12psi @ 4C in kegerator, leave for 6 days
11) drink!
12) start all over again.


Also, a little off topic. Can I leave my copper immersion chiller in my keggle for the duration of the boil? Its very tight to get it through the opening and thus would be easier to just leave it in there all the time. I have just made the keggle today from a keg I found left out in hard rubbish on my street. I just cut the top out of it.

Cheers
HG

#16 Peteoz77

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:12 PM

Also, a little off topic. Can I leave my copper immersion chiller in my keggle for the duration of the boil? Its very tight to get it through the opening and thus would be easier to just leave it in there all the time. I have just made the keggle today from a keg I found left out in hard rubbish on my street. I just cut the top out of it.

Cheers
HG



I reckon just screw it into your keg with 10 mins left... but see what everyone else says...

#17 hughyg

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 06:54 PM

I reckon just screw it into your keg with 10 mins left... but see what everyone else says...


I would but it is a really tight fit. I need to really man handle the kettle to get it in, which would burn my hands!

#18 Maple

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:02 PM

I would but it is a really tight fit. I need to really man handle the kettle to get it in, which would burn my hands!

I don't see an issue with it. better than trying to pry it in when on full boil. the rest sounds fairly good, just make sure you record all your numbers, and adjust as you go (if your so inclined). can I as why a 90 min boil? edit: nevermind, just looked at the guide. go for it, but it may not be necessary. more on that in the other threads

Edited by Maple, 24 September 2009 - 07:08 PM.


#19 hughyg

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:04 PM

I don't see an issue with it. better than trying to pry it in when on full boil. the rest sounds fairly good, just make sure you record all your numbers, and adjust as you go (if your so inclined). can I as why a 90 min boil?


Just thought how it would go. Would a 60 be better?

#20 Maple

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Posted 24 September 2009 - 07:23 PM

Just thought how it would go. Would a 60 be better?

I do a 60, others do 90. if the guide says do 90, try it, then experiment. I'm not going to go against it, there are a few reasons why a 90 min boil is advantageous - it drives off DMS precursors for one. but given your probable malt bill you aren't likely using Pils malt and shouldn't be a huge factor regardless. ok, I can ramble on, but I'll leave ya with it. stick to your plan.