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You leave your beer in the sun???

I've done a few of the MJ craft series pouches and really like them. I've done the London Bitter, Irish Stout, and the Nut Brown Ale...all very nice. The only thing I added was appropriate the Copper Tun (Brewcraft) enhancer. What one would you add for the IPA? There are enhancers for every...

Not a big downside though. It's not like you've got all the crap at the bottom or a krausen ring to clean. The beer is only in there for a very short time, and it's very easy to clean. I usually just give it a quick hose down as soon as I've finished filling to bottles.

Carb drops are perfectly fine, used them for ages with no issues at all. They are also very quick and simple, so if that's what you're after then they're great. Bulk priming just gives you more control if you are using different sized bottles, or want to tweak the carbonation to suit a...

Pretty much nailed it there...piss easy. Except for the last bit, bottle almost immediately or the sugar will start to settle at the bottom.

You're going to get more different answers than you probably want, each to their own here I think...sugar, dextrose, DME, probably more that I haven't thought of. Personally I used to just use carb drops, but now bulk prime with dextrose and love it.

I used to sit the FV in a few inches of water with a few frozen coke bottles, and drape a towel over the top occasionally pouring cold water over it. I'd swap the bottles with fresh ones before and after work. PITA but served the purpose until I got a fridge and stc-1000.

You can ferment in bloody near anything, and you do not need an airlock. As long as it's food grade plastic, and can be covered (search glad wrap), you can ferment in it.

Is this still likely to be a problem even when CCing at close to 0 degrees after two weeks at around 18-19?

I'll usually try to struggle through a bad beer as penance for making such a shit beer.

^ Yeah that. :lol:

I think that provided you are very careful with sanitation and yeast handling you can get a lot more than 3 or 4 generations out of yeast. I've heard of people getting more than 10 generations with no obvious problems. Hey, maybe it did mutate but for the better. :) I've never gone past 2nd...

From what I understand, the answer is yes, a starter does not count. If I take a 2nd gen slurry from the fridge and make a starter with it, it is still 2nd gen. Happy to be corrected though...

Agree. Probably the only advantage that I can see is that it takes up slightly less room without the airlock. Once I drop the yeast in, I don't look at it for three weeks when I transfer to my bottling bucket.

You can get an auto-syphon, makes the job really easy. That's what I use when transferring from the kettle to the FV. Alternatively, fill the entire tube with cooled boiled water or Star San, put one end into the wort and your thumb on the other end. Then just lower the end with your thumb into...

Pick up the fermenter, and give it a gentle swirl around (without splashing) to get the yeast back into suspension. Check gravity again in a couple of days.

If you don't drink at least most of the sample (you can leave the sediment at the bottom just as you would normally) you risk angering the beer Gods and a nasty infection.

Yep, I'm a bit the same. I always take a hydro reading when I do AG, but when I'm pressed for time and do a kit beer I never take one. Two weeks at 18ish, one week cold crash, bottle...soon to be kegging though hopefully. :) Would recommend newbies always take at least a couple of readings...

You don't need to with the DIY fermenter, it doesn't have the screw on lid or an airlock. The glad wrap technique is more for the old style Coopers fermenter and similar types...

I've got one of the beer belly long thermowells but never used in in the fermenter...did use it in the mash once or twice. Now just put the probe directly in the mash. Difference in temp between actual wort temp and probe stuck to the side is exactly +/- bugger all...