Hefeweizen question

Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum

Help Support Australia & New Zealand Homebrewing Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Yep, my recipe is simple. 55% malted wheat, 45% barley of which most is pils malt but around 5% very light crystal which adds a bit more body which I prefer. Wheat malt makes a thin bodied beer so some crystal compensates. For Yeast I have been using Mangrove Jacks M20 (stepped up) which gives identical results to 3068

Most online brewer having been posting that M20 is a good substitute for Wy3638. Brewers on German forums seem to think Lallemand's
Munich Classic is the best dry option for a 3068 type profile.
 
Yep, my recipe is simple. 55% malted wheat, 45% barley of which most is pils malt but around 5% very light crystal which adds a bit more body which I prefer. Wheat malt makes a thin bodied beer so some crystal compensates. For Yeast I have been using Mangrove Jacks M20 (stepped up) which gives identical results to 3068
Sounds good Labels will have to give the M20 a go if this weather ever heats up
How do you go with youre water profile mate if you dont mind me asking & do you use 2 packets of the M20 for 23 L
 
Most online brewer having been posting that M20 is a good substitute for Wy3638. Brewers on German forums seem to think Lallemand's
Munich Classic is the best dry option for a 3068 type profile.
Sorry haven't been reading the other forums.
A couple of brews back, I did get caught and done one 50L batch of wheat beer but only had enough yeast for one fermenter. A quick trip down to LHBS and they had no M20 yeast so I direct pitched a pack of Wy 3068 in one fermenter and the M20 in the other.Cut a long story short, at the end of the day there was no differernce in flavour profiles from either fermenter - both identical beers with the same esters and phenolics. As a BJCP judge with reasonable experience, I thought I would pick up a difference but I couldn't pick any at all.
 
Sounds good Labels will have to give the M20 a go if this weather ever heats up
How do you go with youre water profile mate if you dont mind me asking & do you use 2 packets of the M20 for 23 L

Water profile is normal tap water - Adelaide tap water in my case which has been filtered (sediment plus solid carbon block). I don't use two packs of yeast, if you re-read my post I did say I step it up. A 2L starter on a stir plate or equivalent is ideal
 
Thanks for feed back & I did miss the step up bit
So do you rehydrate or just sprinkle onto the 2 L stir plate starter
Most people or I might have it wrong rehydrate & pitch direct but not too sure about M20 yeast as
my experience with dry yeast is Nottingham,US05 ,WB06 & S-O4 in the early days with kits
I've gone down the R/O water route so will have to look up hefeweizen water profiles no probs
From reading youre posts you come across as an experienced brewer so that is the reason for my questions to you
Cheers Rude
 
Sorry haven't been reading the other forums.
A couple of brews back, I did get caught and done one 50L batch of wheat beer but only had enough yeast for one fermenter. A quick trip down to LHBS and they had no M20 yeast so I direct pitched a pack of Wy 3068 in one fermenter and the M20 in the other.Cut a long story short, at the end of the day there was no differernce in flavour profiles from either fermenter - both identical beers with the same esters and phenolics. As a BJCP judge with reasonable experience, I thought I would pick up a difference but I couldn't pick any at all.

I'm pretty sure they are both Weihenstephan W 68 in which case they are genetically identical. More info here.

It's years since I used it but back when I used to make a couple of million litres a year we fermented it quite warm: 22.5 degrees from memory.
 
About to put down my first hefe. I have a sack of castle Munich wheat 25, will that be good to use or should I be using raw wheat?
 
Back
Top